On balmy summer afternoons the harbor is filled with pleasure craft of all types and sizes. The flow of traffic streams in and out of small inlets and coves creating a texture of waves for those to navigate their vessels. Sailboats showing all the colors of a rainbow move slowly across the waters only dictated by the winds as they show off their beauty. Power boats motor on a course dictated by the depths of the ocean floor and the proximity of other vessels.
Historically, these waters of Newport Harbor and Rhode Island Sound were navigated by the Indians and first settlers who found Newport to have an excellent harbor for island inhabitants. The island with its rocky cliffs, spectacular views of the ocean and ideal conditions for sailing and fishing has a celebrated history of commercial fishing and as a summer resort. In the early days many ships went aground thus the birth of the lighthouse as an aid to navigation.
One of the first lighthouses that one may see if returning from the sound is Beavertail Lighthouse
As the third lighthouse built in Colonial America, the 58-foot wooden tower was built in 1749. It was rebuilt in 1754 after a fire the year before. Built of brick and rubble this tower too was set afire by the British in 1779. The heat of the fire warped the masonry but repairs were again made keeping the tower in service.
In 1851 a foghorn was powered by compressed air, using a horse tethered to a revolving walker to pump air into a tank.
The present-day Beavertail Light is made of composed granite and was completed in 1856. Known as the red roofs, this lighthouse serves to direct a mariner into the waters of the west passage.
Coming into the harbor is Castle Hill Light built in 1890 into the rock crevices and boasting a height of 40 feet above the water’s surface. This 34-foot tower stands at the west end of Newport Neck.
Its style is of Richardsonian Romanesque. In 1938 a hurricane destroyed the associated dwellings. There are stories of the area as being haunted by ghosts. But as it turned out the keepers’ wife had a habit of going for walks on hot summer nights in her white nightgown.
Motoring past Fort Adams a once flashing white light on Goat Island is known as Newport Light. The first lighthouse was completed in 1823 at the south end of Goat Island, a 20 foot tall stone tower. This lighthouse confused many a sailor and ships were wrecked on the north end of Goat Island. In 1838 the light was moved to the north end of the island.
In 1865 a new tower replaced the old standing 38 feet tall and made of hewn granite. In 1922 an American submarine rammed the pier and personal were withdrawn. The light was electrified and renovated by the USCG in 1963. Today is has a steady green light and welcomes all from the north.
Located in inner Newport Harbor is Lime Rock Light, known today as Ida Lewis Rock Light built in 1854. The light was first lit in 1854 and then automated in 1927. Made of brick the tower height is 13 feet and is square in shape, attached to the side of a building. Ida Lewis born in Newport and the daughter of the light keeper was said to have saved sixteen sailors one foggy night as the light keeper, her father ill. She was astonishingly a very young age at the time and has become famous as a result of her bravery.
On the rocks close to Rose Island, winter seals congregate after a lively swim in the harbor. Rose Island is a tiny island in Newport Harbor. Rose Island Light built in 1870 at a height of 50 feet was considered strategically located and aided in the defense of Narragansett Bay during the 18th century.
The lighthouse is located on the south west point of Rose Island and was deactivated in 1971 and turned over to the University of Rhode Island who were unable to maintain the property. It was then turned over to the federal government for disposal. In 1984 a group of concerned citizens formed the Rose Island Lighthouse Foundation, which restored the structure.
Today the foundation is alive and active functioning as a museum and Innkeeper Hotel with its house reserved a few years in advance. Now, each of the harbor lighthouses in unspoiled condition is used by many a mariner as an aid to navigate Newport Harbor waters as those who previously plotted a course navigating the waters.
Aquidneck Island known by the Indians as “Isle of Peace,” is today known as a summer resort and an amazing place to relive a bit of history and engineering marvel at the edge of the water.
About the Author
Domestic Travel - CLOSER TO HOME
After being cooped up for over a year, there’s a lot of pent-up demand for travel. But there’s also concern about how safe travel is.
A few months ago, I decided that in the interest of safety, this would be a year to explore North America, rather than flying to more exotic destinations. How, you ask, can staying here be as exciting as a trip to Paris, Tokyo or a safari in Tanzania? And how do I avoid the crowds that are likely to converge on major tourist destinations?
Start by thinking of activities you love. That can be jazz, antiquing, cooking, soccer, woodworking or just about anything. I’m drawn to crafts, especially artists’ studios. I’m a sucker for gardens, puppets and anything that hints at bizarre. Plan a trip around your passion. Look for festivals, out-of-the way museums, contests, workshops or anything else that will connect you with equally enthralled people.
When you arrive, talk with locals who share your interests. A smile and genuine interest gets people to open up. Asking for tips can lead to amazing finds.
While traveling near Knoxville with a friend who’s mad for fiddle music, I visited the Museum of Appalachia. In one small cabin a guitar player sprawled on a hand-carved wooden chair as his sausage-like fingers flew. The fiddle player broke into a jig, playing all the while. A tall, stately woman played banjo and sang with a soft twang. Although there were only two of us in their audience, they played as if they were at the Grand Ole Opry.
At the end of each song, we applauded enthusiastically. My friend asked about their instruments and songs. The fiddle player tipped his hat in appreciation and said, “You gals should go over to the Lake View Inn tonight.” He went on, “Every Monday they have a pickin’ session. It’s great fun.” That’s how we ended up at a free, impromptu concert, in a motel dining room filled with devoted locals. On stage (in front of the salad bar) amateur and professional musicians played for hours to this exuberant audience. It was as wonderful and exotic an experience as any I’ve encountered.
National Parks will most likely be over-crowded this summer. But if you love nature and want to avoid throngs of people, head to the lesser-known state and provincial parks or other government owned land. At Anzo-Borrego state park in California there is some of the best stargazing on the planet. One August night I must have seen a hundred shooting stars. If you like wild, uncluttered beaches and outstanding beach combing try Ecola state park in Oregon. Letchworth state park in New York has endless waterfalls, well-maintained hiking trails and cabins for rent. In the Okefenokee Swamp in Georgia I had close-up encounters with alligators and marveled at the cypress knees, dense vegetation and shimmering water. Every state has dozens of parks, from wild to tame, with a wide variety of amenities. I vividly remember going to a remote park in Ontario when I was a small child; today’s kids will retain equally wonderful memories.
The United States is a country of immigrants and each group brings their cultural heritage and cuisine with them. If you’re a foodie, you don’t have to cross an ocean to taste the best the world offers. Some of the best Vietnamese food I’ve ever eaten, including in Viet Nam, was in Minneapolis. Go on a food tour in New Orleans and take a cooking class while you’re there. In Miami sample authentic Cuban food. Charleston has great seafood—go for crab, bouillabaisse, oysters and grouper at a riverfront restaurant. In San Francisco or New York to eat specialties from across China. The list is endless and the possibilities delicious.
Plan a trip around North America’s lesser-known cities and towns. Some of my favorites include Hyde Park, NY, Lafayette, LA and Taos, NM. They’re filled with history, local attractions and places to kick back and relax. They’ll be far less expensive than visiting a major city and your chances for discovering something wonderful are high. If you chat with the owners of local businesses, they’ll clue you in to the local treasures. Stick to mom-and-pop establishments rather than chains and you’ll be amazed at how friendly and helpful people are. In Eureka Springs, Arkansas, a shop owner introduced me to some locals who were also shopping there. The couple invited me for lunch, then gave me a full afternoon tour of the area.
While you’re in smaller towns buy antiques at a fraction of the cost of the same items in a city. Go to a county fair and sample the local specialties. At a fair in Mumford in upstate New York, I sampled beef on a weck, an unforgettable pretzel-bun sandwich. I also saw prized vintage automobiles, talked with local craftspeople and watched kids compete in hilarious competitions. Was it Rome? No, but it was unforgettable, and I had a fabulous time.
Think you can’t see world class attractions outside of major cities? Think again. Columbus, Indiana has dozens of buildings designed by some of the world’s finest architects. It’s a small city that The American Institute of Architects has ranked as sixth in the United States for architectural innovation and design. Take a tour, I guarantee you’ll be impressed.
Most people are aware of wine tours in California. But do you know about the Tennessee whiskey trail? The distilleries are as hospitable and beautiful as any winery I’ve ever visited. And the whiskey is world class.
The Vail Dance Festival brings together top dance companies from around the world; you’ll have the chance to see the NY City Ballet with the Rocky Mountains as a backdrop.
For art lovers, head to Marfa, Texas or Silver City, New Mexico or Berea, Kentucky. All three (and many other towns) are brimming with galleries filled with work by emerging and established artists.
I celebrated my fortieth birthday by taking an extended road trip around the USA. Even with months of travel, I never ran out of places that delighted and intrigued me. Search around, go down the rabbit hole on your browser, you’ll be astounded at the top-notch possibilities you’ve never even heard of. Then go out and explore.
