The Two-World Charm of LUCERNE

With the years advancing on me, I decided that it was high time for me to start ticking off the “bucket-list” historic cities that I had yet to visit and photograph. I began by selecting revered historic destinations Budapest, Prague, Vienna, Milan and Dubrovnik. But it was my history-loving travel agent who insisted that I add Lucerne, Switzerland, to my list as a must-see destination and I am still thanking her.

Lucerne, commonly overlooked by many travelers– and happily less crowded– is tucked within a bowl in the northern foothills of the Swiss Alps. In the shadow of the multi-peaked Mt. Pilatus, the city sprawls around the edge of the sparkling Lake Lucerne, with the old town hugging the lake’s outflow, the River Reuss. Lucerne is a jewel box of a town with its medieval splendor still evident at nearly every turn.

I flew in first to Zurich and then had a car pick me up for the stunningly beautiful 40-minute drive over the Swiss countryside to the German-speaking canton of Lucerne. But my driver stopped about 100 yards from the entrance to my hotel—on the wrong side of the river, with no inkling how to get across on four wheels. The first sense I had of the ancient character of the town was when we got out and wheeled my suitcase over a wooden bridge onto cobblestoned streets, turned right and there before me were my jaw-dropping lodgings, the Hotel Des Balances.

Emblazoned across this one-time guild hall is a mural from top to bottom depicting the history of the building dating back to the 13th century! Painted in the style of German renaissance artist Hans Holbein, the revered court painter for the infamous Henry VIII, it is one of the most-photographed spots in Lucerne. Des Balances’ sepia, red and green facade is so busy with activity, it’s hard for the eye to settle in just one place.

The Des Balances origins begin in 1190. It has served as a town hall, guild house and inn. The first inn was situated close to the 12th Century meat and fish market. The name of the hotel speaks to its proximity to the marketplace (des (of), balances (scales). Lucerne itself benefited from being one of the first four of the independent Swiss Confederacy that broke away from the Habsburg empire, to prosper on its own—with this building at the center of the city’s politics and economy.  Celebrities from across Europe, such as playwright George Bernard Shaw, stayed here on their visits to Central Switzerland, a must stop on the Grand European Tour.

With typical Swiss efficiency and welcome I was ushered to my compact and well-appointed room, but its real benefit was its location. Stepping out on the small balcony, I had one of the most iconic and striking views in Europe—the Kapellbrücke, the flower-adorned, covered wooden bridge diagonally spanning the Reuss first erected in the 14th century and bisected by an octagonal stone water tower (the Wasserturm) that was part of the city’s original fortifications. That tower has served as a prison, torture chamber, treasury and city archive.

The scenic bridge is what makes Lucerne a photographer’s dream. From any angle it is charming and picturesque.

As eye-catching as it is, the interior is not to be missed. Originally 158 14th century paintings depicting scenes from the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints St. Leger and St. Maurice—proclaiming Lucerne proudly Catholic during the Counter-Reformation –graced the triangular roof frames. But a fire in 1993 destroyed all but the 30 you see today.

 Look downriver and you will note the Spreuerbrücke, a 16th century wood covered bridge that also sports 45 paintings from a Danse Macabre, known as Totentanz.

Looking right and left, I had the pleasure of viewing both of these two bridges from my hotel balcony, and directly across from my hotel was the twin onion-towered Jesuit Church, the first large Baroque church built in Switzerland north of the Alps, with construction beginning in 1667.

Given that Lucerne stayed staunchly Catholic and resistant to the Protestant forces until very late in history, this church was the heart of Lucerne’s religious life for many centuries. The Jesuit Church fronts on the inviting river with its steps providing the perfect place for locals and tourists to joyfully dip their feet into the cooling water on a hot summer day.  In the coming days I would tour the church’s gilded interior with its beautifully carved high altar, organ and treasury. The church is renowned for its fine acoustic, which is why organists are taught here, and it serves as a concert venue.

That late afternoon, I stroll down the north side of the Reuss, exiting the river-facing entrance from Des Balances. All along this waterfront promenade are remarkable historic structures including the City Hall. Many that were once owned by burghers and merchants are now hotels featuring tables for al fresco dining overlooking the Kapellbrücke. Move quickly because these tables fill up quickly!

I selected one, the Rathaus Brauerei  (Town Hall Brewery) that serves many famed traditional Swiss dishes, plus fresh local fare. How could I resist eating cheese fondue in the city that boasts an annual Cheese Festival! The food was ample and tasty, and for those beer enthusiasts, craft beers are brewed in copper vats on the site, and seem to be favorites of the locals. Sitting under the arched portico, I had a lovely view as the city lights came on, reflected in the glassy river,  while I watched a steady parade of evening strollers.

The next morning, I breakfasted on the dining veranda at my hotel. But I could not miss the intoxicating smell of chocolate coming from the inside breakfast buffet table—pastries, hot chocolate, coffee cake laced with the sweet stuff? Nope, it was a chocolate fondue fountain! Not for dinner dessert.  Just for breakfast, complete with marshmallows! You gotta love the Swiss! What a way to start the day!

So I began my walking tour of Old Town Lucerne that morning, with my cell phone and two digital cameras primed.  I was on the hunt for Old Town’s famous painted squares. Each one with its distinct personality.

The Hirschenplatz is named after a hotel which once graced the square, The Stag (Hirsh). You can’t miss the golden stag sign that remains. This was a quarter that appealed to merchants and residents. The frescos on these buildings are protected as historical monuments.  The Little Goose-Man Fountain in the center is a favorite of children. This square tends to be fairly sedate and quiet.

The Weinmarkt (wine market) has gorgeous colored townhouses that contained taverns for each of the professions– butchers, tanners, shoemakers, and innkeepers – while also acting as guildhalls. This square was the location of the meat market that gave its name to Des Balances. The meat sellers are gone, but the rest of the square has been in its present form since 1481.

The Kornmarkt was the center for grain sales in medieval Lucerne life. Its most visible feature is its handsome stone clock tower, the Zytturm, originally one of the nine towers of the city’s lower fortifications, and still climbable for breathtaking views of Lucerne from above.

This square was also the site of the construction in the early 1600s of a Renaissance- style building that housed both town hall and granary—and it served those purposes as late as 1979 when the city’s administration was relocated.

Much of the town’s political and social life revolved around the Kornmarket square. You will still find cultural events and concerts staged here.

The Sternenplatz is the square you will remember for its flamboyance, most notably the frescoed “Restaurant Fritschi” with the brilliant flames on the lower floors and the masked carnival figures above the windows, painted by artist Robert Ottiger.

This 15th century building is named for a fictional carnival character Lutz Fritschi. Beginning in late February, the annual Carnival is the largest public event in Lucerne where historically costumed characters emerge from the bridges in all directions to converge in the Kornmarkt for a celebration of dance, music and hijinks. I am told there is no rest until Ash Wednesday — the traditional end day of Carnival!

The Kapellplatz also takes its cue from Carnival. It’s here the event actually begins on the place it is rumored that “Brother Fritschi” is buried. A whimsical fountain that depicts the Fritchi family, from top to bottom–Fritschi, his wife, a nursemaid and servant designated with carnival masks from the 19th century,—is capped by a standard bearer holding a flag. This brightly colored confection is sure to bring a smile to your face.

Clearly, Lucerne residents are proud of their rich history and culture, preserving it on nearly every corner.

Did You know? Lake Lucerne is often called “The heart of Switzerland” The Lucerne Carnival features colorful parades and traditional costumes. The city’s name is derived from the Benedictine monastery of St. Leodegar.

But there is much more to the city than just the Old Town. One morning I decided to trek up the hillside to the remains of the 2600- foot Musegg Wall and its pointed towers on the high sandstone ridge above Lucerne. These fortifications begun in the 13th century consisted of two rampart rings, the inner ring in the lower town and the outer ring up on the hill. With it’s nine towers floodlit at night, it is considered the best-preserved defensive wall in all of Switzerland. Once you mount the wooden staircase through one of the towers, you are rewarded with striking views of the River Reuss and its surroundings.  You will also experience lovely flora, and plenty of wildlife. The wall is home to rare bird species, including jackdaws, goosanders and alpine swifts.

While I didn’t have time to experience it, there is also a funicular which takes you to the Hotel Chateau Gütsch standing at the original end point of the fortifications. The first inn was constructed in 1859 but lost to fire in 1888. It was rebuilt to be reminiscent of Germany’s Neuschwanstein Castle. Views from here are also reported to be gorgeous, spanning the entirety of Lake Lucerne. This, too, was a must-stop for the Victorians on their Grand European journeys.

Later that day, I headed east toward the newer part of town. On the way, I passed through busy walking thoroughfares that mark Lucerne’s elegant fashionable shopping district with designer stores offering Gucci, Valentino, Stella McCartney and Balenciaga—where daywear can start at $25,000, and a bridal dress can run six figures or more.  Don’t ask what cocktail wear will put you back!

Speaking of that you, might just be able to don your new elegance for a performance at Lucerne’s Culture and Congress Center known locally as KKL (Kultur- und Kongresszentrum Luzern,) a modern architectural masterpiece of design. This multi-purpose, indoor-outdoor building fronting on the lake is considered one of the world’s great performance centers, known for its extraordinary acoustics.

As I exited the shopping district, I entered a part of town lying north of the lake, that blends modern with 18th and 19th century residences and storefronts. Two noteworthy landmarks are the Alpineum, a museum that offers a 3D Diorama of the Alps. Housed in an 1885 circular Victorian structure, it’s also home to the Alpineum Kaffehous & Bar, a lovely place to rest your sore feet for a while before heading over to the Lion Monument.

Carved in relief from sheer rock, this touching sculpture of a lion taking his last breath is a salute to the Swiss Guards who were killed in 1792 during the French Revolution, defending Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI at the Tuileries Palace in Paris. 

Before leaving this area it is well worth a visit to St. Matthew’s, with its two stately spires. This Neo-Gothic church is one of only two Protestant churches in the city and was build in 1848. The composer Richard Wagner was married here. I ended my stay in Lucerne with a peaceful and beautiful paddle-steamer cruise on the Lake. The stunning views afforded me great images of the spires of St. Matthews, the Kapellbrücke, Mt. Pilatus, lakeside chalets and pleasure craft out for a Sunday sail.

It was the perfect way to wind down from a magical couple of days in the Swiss Alpine city of Lucerne.

For more information www.luzern.com