Experience the Amazing Migration of Zambia’s WILDEBEEST

As you settle into the open 4×4 vehicle, the early morning air is crisp, filled with the earthy scent of the savanna. The experienced guide starts the engine, and your journey across the vast plains of Liuwa Plain National Park begins. The sun is just beginning to rise, casting a golden hue over the landscape.

In the distance, a dark, moving mass catches your eye. As you draw closer, the shapes become clearer—thousands of wildebeest, their bodies moving in unison like a well-rehearsed dance. The sound is overwhelming: the low grunts of the wildebeest, the rustling of the grass, and the occasional call of a zebra. It’s a symphony of nature, raw and unfiltered.

The guide stops the vehicle at a safe distance, allowing you to take in the scene. You can feel the ground vibrating slightly under the weight of the migrating herd. The wildebeest are relentless, driven by an ancient instinct to move, to find fresh grazing grounds. Among them, you spot zebras and tsessebe, their striped and tawny coats standing out against the sea of grey.

Predators are never far behind. You catch sight of a group of hyenas lurking at the edge of the herd, their eyes gleaming with anticipation.

Farther off, barely visible through the tree is another shape. While the shape itself doesn’t’ reveal its identity, the coloring is obvious — a leopard, sleek and deadly, half-naps with one eye open on the endless buffet stomping along just one pounce away. Knowing the savagery contained in that spotted coat, even at that distance, its presence is unsettling enough to keep glancing back at it, despite the spectacle of hundreds and hundreds of wildebeest migrating to new feeding grounds happening right before us.

The remains tension is palpable, a reminder of the harsh realities of the wild.

As the sun climbs higher, the heat intensifies, and the smell of dust and sweat fills the air. The wildebeest continue their march, undeterred by the rising temperature.  The leopard now appears completely asleep, choosing to nap in the heat and gorge itself on wildebeest meat later.

You take a moment to absorb the scene, the sheer scale of it all. It’s a reminder of the incredible resilience and determination of these animals.

The guide starts the engine again, and you move on, leaving the herd behind. The experience is etched in your memory, a vivid snapshot of one of nature’s greatest spectacles. The wildebeest migration is not just a journey; it’s a testament to the enduring spirit of the wild, a sight that will stay with you long after you’ve left the plains of Liuwa.

The wildebeest migration in Plain National Park is a remarkable natural event, showcasing the resilience and instinctual drive of these animals. This migration is Africa’s second-largest, involving around 40,000 to 50,000 wildebeest, along with zebra, tsessebe, and lechwe. Liuwa Plain National Park, situated in the upper Zambezi floodplains of western Zambia, spans approximately 3,369 square kilometers (1,301 square miles) and  is bounded by the Luambimba River to the north and the Luanginga River to the south. The terrain is predominantly flat grassland, interspersed with seasonal pans and scattered with raffia palms and patches of Kalahari woodland.

The park’s landscape is characterized by vast, open grasslands that transform dramatically with the seasons. During the wet season, from December to April, the plains are flooded, creating a lush wetland teeming with life. This seasonal flooding is crucial for the ecosystem, replenishing the soil and providing abundant grazing for herbivores. The vegetation includes various grasses, which are the primary food source for the migrating wildebeest, as well as other flora such as sedges and aquatic plants in the wetter areas.

The wildebeest migration in Liuwa Plain is driven by the search for fresh grazing grounds and water. As the dry season progresses and resources become scarce, the wildebeest begin their journey. This migration is not just a movement of animals; it is a vital process for the survival of the species. The wildebeest follow ancient migratory routes, guided by instinct and the changing environment. The movement of large herds helps to aerate the soil and disperse seeds, promoting plant growth and maintaining the health of the grasslands.

The migration also coincides with the calving season, providing a safe environment for the birth of new calves. The abundance of food during this time helps the young grow quickly and increases their chances of survival.

The migration attracts a variety of predators, including lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and wild dogs. This predator-prey interaction is crucial for maintaining the ecological balance in the park. Predators rely on the migration for a significant portion of their food supply, and the presence of large herds ensures that the predator populations remain healthy.

The migration also supports other species that depend on the same resources, creating a dynamic and interconnected ecosystem. The wildebeest migration in Liuwa Plain National Park is not just a journey; it is a vital process that sustains the ecosystem and ensures the survival of numerous species. It is a powerful reminder of the intricate connections within nature and the importance of preserving these natural wonders for future generations.  

To experience this natural marvel, you’ll need to travel not only to Zambia but to Kalabo  Airport near Liuwa Plain National Park, where you will meet your guide who will take you to your lodge or camp. The ride itself can be an adventure, offering a glimpse into the diverse landscapes and local culture of western Zambia.

As you leave the airport, the journey takes you through the small town of Kalabo, where  you might see bustling markets and local shops. The road then winds through rural areas, passing traditional Zambian villages. Children often wave as you drive by, adding a warm, welcoming touch to your adventure.

The scenery gradually changes as you approach the park. The flat, open grasslands of the Barotse Floodplain stretch out before you, dotted with seasonal pans and scattered raffia palms. Depending on the time of year, you might see the plains teeming with birdlife, including wattled cranes and other waterfowl. The landscape is a patchwork of colors, with the green of the wet season giving way to the golden hues of the dry season.

Along the way, you may spot wildlife even before entering the park. Lechwe and oribi are common sights, grazing in the open fields. The occasional hyena or jackal might be seen trotting across the road, a reminder of the rich biodiversity that awaits you in Liuwa Plain National Park. The journey itself is a prelude to the wonders of the park, setting the stage for the incredible wildlife experiences to come.

Once you arrive, you have several lodging options to choose from, each offering a unique way to experience the park.

King Lewanika  Lodge provides an exclusive and immersive experience with its six open-fronted villas, including a spacious family villa. The villas are tastefully decorated with vintage leather, cotton, and canvas, blending seamlessly into the vast landscape. Powered by solar energy, they feature indoor and outdoor showers, lounges, and verandas. Activities include game drives, walking safaris, canoeing, and fishing.

Liuwa Camp, open since December 2023, features eight ensuite canvas chalets, including a family unit. The central area showcases Lozi culture with a dining room, lounge, and library. Guests can enjoy game drives, walking safaris, and evening relaxation around the firepit.

For a more intimate experience, the Liuwa Plains Mobile Safari offers accommodation in three Meru tents, hosting up to six guests. Led by expert guides, this safari includes game drives and guided walks, with set departures in November to align with the wildebeest migration.

The Liuwa Plain Campsites offer a more rustic experience, with four remote campsites accommodating up to 20 people each. These community-run sites feature flushing toilets and hot showers. Specific campsites include Lyangu, Katoyana, Kwale, Mukalabumbu, and Sikale, each providing unique wildlife viewing opportunities.

For those seeking more luxurious accommodations, Matamanene Camp operates most of the year, offering a high-end lodge experience. Additionally, a few guesthouses in Kalabo cater to visitors looking for more basic lodging options. These diverse accommodations ensure that every visitor can find a suitable place to stay while exploring the wonders of Liuwa Plain National Park.

During downtime before the morning observation, guests at these lodges and camps can enjoy a variety of activities designed to enhance their safari experience. At King Lewanika Lodge, you can relax in the comfort of your villa, taking in the stunning views from your private veranda. The lodge also offers birdwatching excursions, where you can observe the region’s spectacular avian inhabitants. For those looking for a unique experience, there is an optional “Sleepout Under the Stars,” allowing you to spend a mesmerizing night in the embrace of nature (additional cost and extra night required).

At Liuwa Camp, guests can unwind in the spacious lounge or library, enjoying a good book or simply soaking in the serene atmosphere. The camp’s central area is a vibrant display of Lozi culture, providing an enriching cultural experience.

Both lodges offer opportunities for leisurely activities such as canoeing and fishing, allowing you to explore the waterways and enjoy the tranquility of the plains. These activities provide a perfect balance of relaxation and adventure, ensuring that your downtime is as en joyable as the main safari events.

As dawn breaks over Liuwa Plain National Park, the air is filled with anticipation. Guests gather at the lodge, sipping on hot coffee or tea to shake off the early morning chill. The guides, experienced and knowledgeable, brief everyone on the day’s plan.

Perhaps there was a change in plan, moving the walking safari to the afternoon.  Don’t fear last-minute changes, it’s because the guides want you  to have the most memorable experience and they know of something special to start your first trip out onto the savanna with.

With the sun just beginning to rise, casting a golden glow over the plains, it’s time to load into the 4×4 vehicles.

The vehicles are open-sided, providing unobstructed views of the landscape and wildlife. Each guest finds a seat, securing their cameras and binoculars, ready for the adventure ahead. The guides ensure everyone is comfortable and remind them of the safety protocols. With a gentle hum, the engines start, and the convoy of vehicles sets off into the wilderness.

The drive begins on well-worn tracks, the vehicles navigating through the grasslands with ease. The morning air is crisp, and the scent of dew-kissed grass fills the air. As the sun climbs higher, the plains come to life. Small of wildebeest and zebra graze peacefully, their movements synchronized like a well-rehearsed dance. The guides share fascinating insights about the animals and their behaviors, enhancing the experience with their expertise.

Occasionally, the radio crackles to life. Another guide has spotted something special—a predator on the move or perhaps a newborn calf. The excitement in the vehicle is palpable as the guide adjusts the route to head towards the sighting.  The anticipation builds as the vehicle approaches the location where another jeep from another camp had already arrived.

Suddenly, the guide signals for silence. Up ahead, a leopard is crouched low in the grass, her eyes fixed on a herd of wildebeest. The guests hold their breath, cameras at the ready. The leopard moves with stealth and precision, her muscles rippling under her tawny coat. The tension is electric, everyone in the vehicle captivated by the scene unfolding before them.

The leopard inches closer, her focus unwavering. The wildebeest are unaware of the impending danger, grazing peacefully. The guide whispers, explaining the leopard’s hunting strategy and the importance of patience in the wild. The guests are mesmerized, their eyes glued to the predator.

Suddenly, the leopard springs into action, her powerful legs propelling her forward. The wildebeest scatter in a flurry of movement, their hooves thundering against the ground. The chase is brief but intense, a raw display of nature’s harsh realities. The leopard manages to bring down a young wildebeest, and the guests watch in awe, a mix of emotions playing across their faces.

The guide allows a moment for everyone to process what they’ve witnessed. It’s a reminder of the circle of life, the delicate balance that sustains the ecosystem. The guests exchange hushed conversations, their respect for the wild deepened by the experience.

As the sun continues to rise, the vehicles move on, the guests now more attuned to the dangers and wonders of the plains. The morning game drive offers countless other marvels—playful zebra foals, elegant tsessebe, and the vibrant birdlife that calls Liuwa Plain home..

The drive eventually circles back to the lodge, where a hearty breakfast awaits. The guests disembark, their minds buzzing with the morning’s adventures. The guides share a few more stories and answer questions, ensuring everyone leaves with a deeper understanding and appreciation of this extraordinary landscape.

After breakfast, there’s time to relax and enjoy the lodge’s amenities. Some guests might choose to take a dip in the pool, while others might prefer to unwind on their private verandas, soaking in the serene views. Lunch is served in the dining area, offering a delicious spread of local and international dishes.

In the late afternoon, it’s time for the second game drive. The  guides, with a knowledge of dramatic timeing, puts off the spectacle of the massive herds of migrating wildebeest for the next morning. Instead, the afternoon safari will catch up on the up close and personal walking tour that had been postponed earlier for the unscheduled thrill.

The walking tour brings nature closer and more intimate — hopefully, not face-to-face with a dangerous predator, but a chance to marvel at the smaller wildlife.

The afternoon light casts a warm glow over the plains, creating perfect conditions for photography. The guides, always in communication with each other, may have received tips about special sightings. Perhaps a cheetah has been spotted, or a herd of elephants is making its way to a watering hole.

The wooded areas give way quickly to the tall, lush grasses of the floodplains.  The wildebeest migration occurs at the beginning of the rainy season, so areas that have lush summer, waist-high grass are often ankle deep in pooling water and knee deep in mud, but the guides with their years of experience know which paths to take to keep your feet, mostly, dray.

As the rains come in, the crowned crane, storks, and herons begin arriving.  Smaller animals like mongooses scurry about.

Occasionally small groups of zebra or wildebeest may wander by, perhaps grateful for easy-to- access water, so scare in the dry season.

As the sun begins to set,  it’s time to trek back to the lodge. The evening is filled with stories and laughter around the campfire, as guests share their experiences and reflect on the day’s adventures. The night sky, free from light pollution, reveals a breathtaking display of stars, adding a magical touch to the evening.

In addition to game drives, guests can enjoy a variety of other activities. Walking safaris offer a Canoeing and fishing excursions provide a different perspective of the park, allowing guests to explore its waterways. Birdwatching excursions are also popular, with the park’s diverse avian population offering plenty of opportunities for sightings.

The combination of game drives, walking safaris, and other activities ensures that every day is filled with wonder and discovery. Liuwa Plain National Park offers a truly immersive and unforgettable safari experience, where the marvels of nature are revealed in all their glory.

The next morning offers one final adventure, a chance to witness another incredible sight in Liuwa Plain National Park. Don’t worry, the guides knew all along where to go to show the massive herds of migrating wildebeest – they had just saved the best for last.

Of course every trip is different.  Witnessing an exciting (or even horrifying) display of predation, a wandering herd of elephants, a rare bird species, or just the chance to see a family of mongoose frolicking in the grass all depends on luck.  But the guides know that the thundering herds of migrating wildebeest will end your tour on a high note.

After the morning’s excitement, it’s time to return to the lodge for a hearty breakfast and to pack up. The guides and staff bid you farewell, and you embark on the journey back to Kalabo Airport. The ride offers a final opportunity to soak in the stunning landscapes and reflect on the unforgettable experiences you’ve had.

With your camera full of photos and your heart full of memories, you board your flight, carrying with you the stories and sights of Liuwa Plain National Park. It’s the end of an extraordinary adventure, but the memories will last a lifetime.

For more information

Zambia Travel: www.zambia.travel

About the Author

Tumelo "Mosese" Moloi
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