Early Spring in NEWPORT

Despite living just a stone’s throw away from Newport and having the ability to visit on a whim, we realized we had never taken a multi-day trip in the early spring. We knew that many of Newport’s most celebrated attractions would be closed, particularly mid-week during our visit, but we also knew this timing would allow us to roam its streets with ease, free from the usual crowds filling the sidewalks.

Imagine Newport Harbor, its waters free from the fleets of summertime yachts, quiet and still under the soft gray skies of early spring. Instead of the glint of polished hulls and the hum of activity, we watched ducks glide peacefully near the docks, dipping beneath the surface in search of fish—a simple, tranquil moment that felt worlds away from the usual buzz.  That’s an experience you don’t get in midsummer.

Quiet. Restful.  Yet still with enough happening to give us a reason to explore and experience Newport.

The Mooring

Arriving too late to do much exploring but in time for dinner, we dined at the Mooring, one of Newport’s mainstays for over 35 years.   On Sayer’s Wharf, in warmer months, dining outside with stunning views of Newport Harbor. 

The cooler weather and may have prevented us from dining alfresco, but it did mean that we could walk in and be seated immediately, no reservation needed.

The Mooring is famous for its chowder (of course). Well, famous for fresh seafood, welcoming atmosphere, and a measure of refinement without being overly formal… and its chowder.  Add to that an award-winning wine list and it’s easy to see why it attracts a wide range of guests and is downright packed in the summertime.

The clam chowder was absolutely delicious, creamy and with clams that still held their texture and flavor.  This is the white creamy New England style, unlike the traditional Rhode Island clear chowder or the red “Manhattan Clam Chowder” that my wife normally favors. Instead she opted for their scallop chowder – definitely worth trying too!

For our entrée, I was so very much tempted by their bouillabaisse for two, with a lobster, local white fish, mussels, fennel, and potatoes in a white wine shellfish broth, but instead  we both chose their seafood pasta. There we discovered shrimps and scallops, Calabrian chile-lime butter, scallions, and crumbs over spaghetti.

Dessert could have been Crème Broulee or key lime pie, but we ended up taking a slice of flourless chocolate cake back to our room.

In all, a pleasant, wonderfully tasting, and memorable dinner that we would have completely skipped in the summer.

Lodging

Our room was just a couple blocks stroll back from the Mooring, past quieter-than-normal but still active night spots the Rhino Bar and the Red Parrot and plenty of others enjoying the reasonably pleasant evening along America’s Cup Blvd. and Thames Street. 

On this trip we stayed at one of the timeshares directly on the waterfront.  The off-season pricing made this appealing along with making exploration afoot a little easier. These lodgings are set up more for long stays than typical hotels, so we had a little space to spread out into as we polished off the chocolate cake and looked out over the dark harbor, speculating on which lights went to which landmarks

Over the years we’ve been guests of the historic Viking Hotel and the charming and hospitable White House B&B, but otherwise, we’ve kept our visits to day trips only – remember, our house is just on the other side of the bay.

Did You know? Newport hosts millions of visitors every year. Major festivals in Newport include the famed Newport Jazz Festival, the Newport Flower Show, and the Newport International Boat Show. Neighboring Middletown maintains its activity level year-round and is often more budget friendly.

Downtown

Our next day’s adventure took advantage of the bright sunshine and calm winds – we strolled around the central tourist areas, the spots that are most crowded in the summertime.  We didn’t actually have the city to ourselves, but it was clearly slower paced and less crowded.

What my wife and I call “Brick Market”, the maps call Thames Street.  It was the old downtown of the 1800’s, where shops served the citizens inland and the ships in the neighboring wharfs.  Actually dating from colonial days, the vast majority of wooden building of Newport were burned during the occupation and siege of Newport for firewood, practically everything is rebuilt since then.

One of the few surviving buildings was the Brick Market building, named because of its construction materials – brick, which saved it from the freezing British troops.  That building once had an open lower level for a marketplace and upper floors that were used for a variety of uses over the years, including a theater, printing press, and even Newport’s City Hall.

Today, the 1760 Brick Market building houses the Museum of Newport History with a collection of colonial-era artifacts including James Franklin’s printing press. (Yep, Ben’s brother was a printer too!)

It also tells the story of the many diverse communities of Newport, including the early Jewish and Quaker communities that made Newport their refuge.

As we explored the street, which I will continue to call the Brick Market of out sheer habit, we ducked into and out of shops, some open for the season already, some still waiting for warmer weather.  We found a few clothing stores,  got some locally-made jerky, and found some fudge to bring back home to the family.

We paused at Queen Anne Square, a pleasant little park born of serendipity rather than wise planning of city fathers.   A block of the city had fallen into neglect after a fire in the 1970’s.  Doris Duke, the heiress whose mansion Rough Point graces the end of the famed Gilded Era mansions on Belview Avenue, purchased the land and turned it into a park, accenting the Trinity Church beyond  that it seemed planned from the beginning.

Along the waterfront, we explored Banister’s Wharf and Bowen’s Wharf.   Like much of Newport in the early spring, some shops were open, some weren’t.  On Bowen’s Wharf we waved as we strolled by the 22 Bowen Restaurant, who fed us some amazing steaks for Valentine’s Day many years ago when we were dating.  They were open, but their supplemental outdoor dining and libations area was awaiting warmer weather and summer patrons.

One  special wintertime visitor was present – the tall ship Oliver Hazard Perry had made its winter home at the docks rather than its usual home near Fort Adams. It still had limited seasonal hours when we cam by, so we couldn’t tour it.

Another interesting establishment on the wharfs is the Seamen’s Church Institute. In an 1930’s building, the institute has resisted the effects of tourism and maintained its mission to provide comfort to sailors, fishermen, and seafarers.  It’s well worth reading more about, even if you don’t consider yourself a seaman.

An Afternoon Drive

For the afternoon, we explored farther with a drive.  Off-season, traffic was sparse, especially once we got away from the waterfront, though as the afternoon went on, we found a huge flow of traffic that confused us until we remembered that the rest of the world was had a work day and commuters were returning home.

Our drive around Newport revealed a rich tapestry of history, culture, and coastal charm. We began with a visit to the Newport Art Museum, housed in the Griswold House, an exquisite example of Stick Style architecture designed by Richard Morris Hunt in 1864. As a National Historic Landmark, the building itself is a visual delight, but its exhibits—highlighting Rhode Island’s artistic heritage—made it an essential stop for us.

Continuing through town, we paused at Touro Park to admire the enigmatic Old Stone Mill, a cylindrical structure steeped in mystery. While historians debate whether it’s a colonial windmill or a relic of pre-Columbian exploration, its timeless arches spark curiosity and invite visitors to imagine its storied past.

As we drove along Bellevue Avenue, we couldn’t help but marvel at the grand mansions lining the road. These opulent “summer cottages” of America’s Gilded Age—such as The Breakers and Marble House—reflect an era of wealth and architectural ambition. Even from the street, the sprawling lawns and intricate facades evoke awe and transport visitors to another time.

Our route also took us past the White Horse Tavern, a National Historic Landmark and the oldest continuously operating tavern in the United States, dating back to 1673. Its clapboard walls and gambrel roof encapsulate colonial New England history, offering glimpses into its past roles as a courthouse, meeting place, and gathering spot for travelers. Today, it provides a cozy dining experience steeped in tradition.

Among Newport’s streets, we noticed the abundance of quaint bed-and-breakfasts that enrich the town’s welcoming atmosphere. Each one seemed to hold a story, from the historic Hydrangea House Inn with its elegant furnishings to the charming Cliffside Inn near the Cliff Walk. These inns offer visitors a more personal and intimate experience, ideal for those seeking a quiet retreat.

Our path then led us to Cardines Field, a small yet historic ballpark nestled near the heart of Newport. Known as one of the oldest active baseball parks in the United States, it dates back to the late 1800s when it served as a sandlot for railroad workers.

With its quirky dimensions and echoes of legendary players like Satchel Paige, the field retains a timeless charm. Today, it’s home to the Newport Gulls, where summer nights come alive with America’s favorite pastime.

As we continued our drive, we paused at the coastline to admire Newport’s beaches. The windswept sands and rhythmic crash of waves offered a serene respite from the day’s exploration, far removed from the crowds of summer. We also passed by Touro Synagogue, the oldest surviving synagogue in the United States. Its elegant Georgian design, completed in 1763, stands as a powerful symbol of religious freedom and Newport’s diverse heritage.

Finally, we noted the transformation of the old visitor’s center into the Hamilton Family Aquarium, an interactive facility operated by Save The Bay. The aquarium showcases local marine life and provides an engaging way to learn about the ecosystems of Narragansett Bay, making it a fresh addition to the town’s attractions.

We finished up our day by picking up a takeout order of fish and chips from Anthony’s Seafood in Middletown.  Our go-to place, Flo’s with its interesting décor, was closed, but Anthony’s with its rustic feel and delicious food was a great addition to our choices for future visits.   They sell fresh seafood too, so it’s easy to see that you can’t get much fresher fish and chips.

We drove to Brenton Point park on scenic Ocean Drive to devour our meal.  Devour is the right word, it was delicious.  And the waves breaking on the rocks at Bretton point were the perfect place to eat our dinner.

During the summer, this is a popular place for kite flying and family picnics.  For us, we had a nice quiet time with gorgeous scenery and plenty of time to spend in each other’s company.

Audrian Auto
Museum

The next day, we visited the Audrian Auto Museum on Bellview Avenue, right at the old casino that has housed the International Tennis Hall of Fame since 1954. 

The museum’s mission is to “Preserve, Celebrate, and Share Automotive History,” and it does so by showcasing a rotating collection of rare and remarkable vehicles. With access to over 400 cars and motorcycles, the museum curates four unique exhibitions each year, ensuring that every visit offers a fresh and engaging experience.

The museum’s collection spans the evolution of the automobile, from the brass-era Veteran cars of the late 19th century to modern supercars.

At the time of our visit, their exhibit’s theme was “Air Cooled Engines”.  My wife, a car person, was enraptured, taking pictures of practically every piece of every vehicle, reading every sign.  There are even QR codes to give even more information about every vehicle, many of which include videos so you can hear the noises the vehicles actually make.

Past exhibitions have included themes like “Luxury, Style, and Speed” and “American Muscle,” highlighting the diversity and innovation of automotive design.

Each exhibit is thoughtfully curated to appeal to enthusiasts of all ages, blending historical significance with aesthetic beauty. The museum prides itself on being “more of an art museum than a car museum,” emphasizing the artistry and craftsmanship of the vehicles on display.

In addition to its exhibits, the Audrain Auto Museum plays an active role in the Newport community with educational programs, internships, and events like the annual Audrain Newport Concours & Motor Week, which celebrates the intersection of history, luxury, and sport.

Newport Vineyards

From there, we wandered into Middletown to find Newport Vineyards.   Our timing was off for catching one of its tours, but we were thrilled to taste their wines over a light lunch in their Brix Restaurant.

My wife snacked on locally-produced artisan cheeses and I ate a small pizza as we looked out at the 50 acres of vines.  They hadn’t yet begun spouting leaves yet, but soon they would be responsible for producing more grapes than any other vineyard in New England.

A flight of wines gave her a chance to have more than the sips we often get at a wine tasting but also a variety so she could experience how different wines with different cheeses.

They also host the Taproot Brewing Company, whose selection of craft small-batch beers that pair with the vineyard’s farm-to-table offerings.

The vineyard is  popular wedding and reception location, with a scenic setting and highly respected food and drink providing an unforgettable experience for couples and their guests.

Home Again

Alas, our quiet Newport adventure had to come to an end and it was time to head back home across the bridges to our side of the bay.

What did we learn?  Of course we’d visit Newport in the height of the tourist season when the entire island is booming and crowds give the city energy, but we’d also visit again in the off season, when we have no waiting at the best restaurants, no problems finding a parking spot, and an entirely different atmosphere to enjoy. 

The off season in Newport reveals a quieter side of the city, where the beauty of its beaches, historic sites, and local businesses feel even more intimate.  Walking along Bellevue Avenue without the rush of summer crowds lets you truly take in the grandeur of the mansions. Visiting local spots like the White Horse Tavern or a charming B&B becomes a relaxing escape rather than a bustling affair. Even places like Brenton Point State Park feel more serene, with the crashing waves and open skies all to yourself.

The city’s charm shifts with the seasons, and while the height of summer brings a lively vibrancy, the off-season offers its own appeal—one of reflection, calm, and uninterrupted exploration.

For more information www.discovernewport.org