
There are so many ways I could start telling you about our exploration of Cody. I could talk about our adventures in nearby Yellowstone, the amazing wild mustangs, or even about the summer-long rodeo. Instead, I’ll tell you about a tiny little sculpture hidden in a corner in Cody’s downtown. Why start there? Because if you look at that sculpture, if you really understand it, you understand Cody.
The sculpture is a whimsical, small bronze bear, set off to the side, tucked away under a bench. It’s just a few inches tall, but the joy it captures, the lightness in the bear’s stance, is unmistakable. The cowboy hat held high in its tiny paws is as much a statement about the exuberance of life in Cody as the real cowboys that ride into town for the rodeo. That cowboy hat is held high as the little bear rides a broomstick horse, reveling in the sheer joy of imagining being a cowboy, even if real 1880’s style cowboy-ing these days is reserved to a very limited, but very blessed few.
But the bear is tucked away, barely noticeable if you’re not looking for it, a treasure for visitors, so it doesn’t just celebrate the dream of being a cowboy, it’s also a present to the visitors to Cody that makes the town successful.
As my wife and I wandered through Cody, it became clear that this little sculpture, tucked away as it was, wasn’t just an oddity—it was a symbol of everything this town represents: history, adventure, cowboy culture, and the wild freedom that runs through the veins of this place, even as the world changes.
Kicking Off in Cody
My wife and I made our home base for our Wyoming adventure in Cody, exploring outward to bucket-list destinations in Yellowstone and beyond. But we also made sure to leave plenty of time to explore Cody itself. The “Rodeo Capital of the World” needed exploring, despite the easy way the vast wilderness and towering peaks nearby could call to us for adventure. But there was something about Cody that kept pulling us back—its spirit, its stories, and yes, its people.
A good way to kick off this kind of exploration would be the trolley tour, which offers a fantastic introduction to the town. You board the colorful trolley, and right away, you’re swept up in Cody’s rich history and unique character. It’s not a fast-paced thrill ride, but it’s certainly packed with valuable background information—an essential way to frame your visit.
As you travel through the streets, you hear about everything from the early days of the town’s founding by master showman Buffalo Bill Cody himself to the legendary figures who have left their marks on the place. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of one of the local wildlife that make their home in this area—whether it’s a deer on the outskirts or the occasional wild turkey strutting across a side street.
One of the highlights of the trolley ride is the Irma Hotel. This historical gem, founded by Buffalo Bill himself, is a place that oozes character and nostalgia. The grand lobby, with its original cherrywood bar, is a throwback to the town’s early days. The stories of Buffalo Bill and his crew of entertainers, the Wild West shows, and the town’s transformation from a rough frontier outpost into a hub of cowboy culture all come alive here.
Right outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters give an outdoor performance that brings Cody’s Wild West history to life. You might even catch a glimpse of some of the gunfighters around downtown afterward, their costumes a living piece of the town’s colorful past. It’s all part of the experience that makes Cody feel like a town that’s proud of its roots, yet knows how to have fun with them.
While the trolley tour gives you a good starting point, it doesn’t take long for you to want to strike out on your own. As the trolley loops back into the center of town, we found ourselves lingering a bit longer around the historic Park County Courthouse. Its impressive architecture stands as a quiet testament to the town’s historical significance, and the adjoining town square is perfect for a stroll—complete with benches, trees, and the occasional street musician adding to the charm. Right nearby, the Cody Dug Up Gun Museum and the Buffalo Bill Center of the West give visitors a deeper dive into the town’s fascinating past, from frontier lawmen to the iconic Buffalo Bill himself.
All of these pieces of the puzzle set the stage for a broader understanding of Cody’s history, and as you wander through the streets or step into a museum, it’s easy to feel as if you’re walking in the footsteps of pioneers and cowboys. Cody’s history is not just contained within buildings or old photographs; it pulses through the air, carried by the same spirit that Buffalo Bill brought to the town all those years ago.
A Walk Through Time in Cody
The town is not a collection of dusty streets and weathered buildings; it’s about as modern as a city gets, with parts lovingly preserved as a living monument to the Wild West. The spirit of the frontier still lingers here, tucked away in corners of the town, waiting to be discovered. And to truly understand Cody, you have to peel back the layers of time, starting with the town’s founder and its deep ties to the history of the American West.
The story of Cody begins, of course, with Buffalo Bill Cody. Born William Frederick Cody, this larger-than-life figure didn’t just give the town its name—he put it on the map. His Wild West Show captivated audiences across the world, bringing cowboys, Native Americans, and even sharpshooters like Annie Oakley into the spotlight. He understood the power of spectacle, and his vision helped turn Cody into a thriving town on the edge of the Wyoming wilderness.
A perfect place to dive deeper into this rich history is Old Trail Town, located on the western edge of Cody. It’s here that you step back in time and experience the rugged life of the frontier. The museum is set up as a living history exhibit, with restored log cabins and original structures dating back to the 1800s, many saved from destruction and relocated here as a tribute to the Old West.
As you walk through the town, you can see firsthand what life was like for settlers, homesteaders, and outlaws who passed through this part of Wyoming. It’s like stepping onto the set of a Western movie, but with a history that’s all too real. The buildings and artifacts are not just for show—they’re pieces of the past that help bring Cody’s history to life. It’s an intimate glimpse into the past, where you can almost hear the creak of wagon wheels and the murmur of cowboys planning their next move.
But Old Trail Town is just one chapter in Cody’s long history. Just down the road, you can visit the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a sprawling complex of five museums that tell the broader story of the American West.
The Buffalo Bill Museum within the center holds many treasures, including original artifacts from Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, his personal memorabilia, and exhibits on his life and legacy. The Firearms Museum, Plains Indians Museum, Whitney Gallery of Western Art, and Cody Dinosaur Exhibit round out the experience, offering a comprehensive look at everything from Native American culture to the evolution of firearms and the prehistoric past of the region. Together, these museums give a rich, multi-faceted view of Cody’s place in history—far beyond just its connection to one man.
Sheridan Avenue
If you want to get a real sense of modern-day Cody, you can’t miss a stroll down Sharadin Avenue, Cody’s “Main Street”, where the history of the Wild West collides with modern-day culture, and you can easily spend hours getting lost in the blend of old-fashioned charm and contemporary flair. From cowboy boots to artisan galleries, from high-end boutiques to humble $10 t-shirt shops, Cody’s downtown has something for everyone. It’s a place where the past is never too far away, yet it remains a living, breathing part of the present.
As we wandered down the street, we found ourselves stepping in and out of shops, each offering something unique. In the Simpson Gallagher Gallery store, a collection of fine Western art captured the beauty of the region’s rugged landscapes. In Mercury Leather Woos and Seidel’s Saddlery, hand-tooled leather goods gleamed in the light, each piece a testament to the craftsmanship that is still alive and well in Cody. After a chat with a local artist, we made sure to stop and peruse the handcrafted jewelry at Rockstar Cowgirl.
Whether you’re looking for a piece of history to take home or a trendy souvenir to remember your visit, Sheridan Avenue delivers. You might walk away with a pair of hand-stitched cowboy boots, a locally crafted belt buckle, or, in our case, a stack of souvenirs to distribute to our adult offspring back home to assuage the “mommy guilt”.
But it’s not just the shopping that makes downtown Cody so special—it’s the atmosphere. The street is alive with music, and we found plenty of places where you could grab a bite to eat, sip a drink, and enjoy some live entertainment. From casual cafes with outdoor seating to more upscale dining options, Cody offers a variety of culinary experiences. We enjoyed stopping into the Silver Dollar Bar for a cold drink and some local tunes—some bluegrass, some country, and a bit of rock mixed in. It felt like the heart of Cody beating right there on the sidewalk.
While you’re taking it all in, keep your eyes open for the public art scattered throughout the town, and not just the nine tiny hidden statues of “Buffalo Bear Cody”.
Walking, you’ll notice sculptures in unexpected places—some large, some small, all part of Cody’s commitment to celebrating its rich Western heritage through modern artistic expression. It’s easy to see how this little town has embraced art as part of its identity. The installations don’t just decorate the streets; they tell a story, much like the tiny bear sculpture we found at the start of our visit. Look for the sculpture of the cowboy scooping water in his hat for his horse, showing the bond that a man and his horse can develop. Or enjoy the large scale sculptures outside the Whitney Museum of Western Art.
Every piece adds a layer to the town’s narrative, and it’s clear that the people of Cody take pride in making sure their town is as visually interesting as it is historically rich.
It’s in the little things — the cowboy hat held high by that tiny hidden bear, the flowing mane of a wild mustang in another—that you start to understand Cody’s unique place in the American West.
The Wilds of Cody
We didn’t stick just with Cody, it was our home base for exploring Yellowstone the way that Bill Cody had intended. But we left plenty of time to explore the town and seize opportunities as they arose. With so much natural beauty surrounding Cody, it’s impossible not to get out and explore the great outdoors.
But before we set out on any adventure, my wife’s natural caution took over—she was a bit concerned about bears. Having heard plenty about the region’s wildlife, particularly the grizzlies, we made a pit stop at Rocky Mountain Discount Sports to chat with the experts about where we could hike safely. The friendly staff there were more than happy to offer advice, reassuring us about the well-traveled paths, and even giving us a few tips on bear safety. As always, bear spray was strongly recommended, and they pointed us to areas that would offer us a good mix of beauty and relative safety.
One of the first places the staff suggested was the Shoshone River Walk. This easy-to-access trail is perfect for those looking to enjoy the outdoors without venturing too far. Located right in town, the River Walk offers a beautiful stroll along the Shoshone River, with spectacular views of the rugged landscape that surrounds Cody. It’s a peaceful place to get in touch with nature, whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just looking for a relaxing way to spend an afternoon. The trail is well-maintained, making it accessible for families, and the peaceful sound of the river rushing by adds a serene quality to the walk.
After consideration, chose to explore the Beck Lake recreational area. It’s not a gigantic lake, but perfect for stretching the legs. The path around the reservoir provided panoramic views of the water and the surrounding peaks, a perfect mix of solitude and natural beauty. We made our way along the trail, enjoying the occasional breeze and sense of tranquility that this area offered.
Along the way, we spotted a few birds soaring overhead and listened to the rustling of leaves underfoot. Prickly pear cactus and other flora caught some of our attention. We also enjoyed watching teens zip along the Beck Lake Bike Park, cresting hills and taking on each other’s dares.
While we didn’t spot any bears, the experience reminded us of the wildness that Cody so freely embraces. The reservoir hike turned out to be the perfect way to immerse ourselves in nature without venturing too far into the wilderness.
Cody’s Rodeo
We had come to Cody with a full slate of adventures in mind, and as our time in town unfolded, we checked off a number of items from our bucket list. We marveled at the sights of Yellowstone, where we were lucky enough to see bears and elk and bison in their natural habitat. We witnessed wild mustangs galloping across the plains, and we soaked up the raw beauty of the land at every turn. We even ticked off a few more must-do experiences that we hadn’t expected to fit into our schedule, all while making Cody our home base for the adventure.
But the one thing we missed—by just a week—was the world-famous Cody Rodeo. It was right there on the edge of our trip, staring us in the face, but the timing just didn’t line up. We arrived in town only to be told that the rodeo season had wrapped up. Our eyes widened as the locals enthusiastically described what we had just missed: the heart-pounding excitement of barrel racing, the powerful bronco busting, and the rush of the crowd cheering on the cowboys and cowgirls competing. As much as we loved every part of our trip, this was the one thing that we’d have to leave for next time.
Still, we heard about the rodeo enough to know it’s not just an event in Cody; it’s a cornerstone of the town’s identity. It’s a daily summer celebration of the cowboy spirit and a reflection of the region’s deep connection to its ranching heritage. For decades, this town has proudly held the title of the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and the events here are legendary. Each summer, the rodeo offers an unmatched experience, attracting visitors from all over the world who come for a taste of authentic western culture.
While we may not have gotten the chance to witness it this time, our visit to Cody has only deepened our desire to return—this time, with a rodeo seat reserved well in advance. The thrill of those nightly performances, under the twinkling lights and the Western sky, is something that will remain on our list for next time. We may have missed it this time around, but the rodeo is a perfect reason to plan another trip to Cody.
The Cody Cattle Company
Though we missed the rodeo, we were fortunate enough to catch the final show of the season for the Cody Cattle Company’s Cowboy Show—a perfect capstone to our time in Cody. Situate next to the rodeo grounds and the Old Trail town. This dinner-and-show experience combines the charm of western musical entertainment with a great meal. As we took our pre-assigned seats in long shared tables, the stage was set for an evening filled with music, laughter, and a deep dive into cowboy music.
The performers, both local and imported from afar as Texas and New Mexico brought the cowboy spirit to life in ways we hadn’t quite expected. The show began with old western songs the kind you’d expect to hear from the heyday of Western cinema sung by Roy Rogers and Gene Autry. It transitioned to more and more modern music with a big emphasis on the classic country and western music of the 70’s and 80’s. There was a genuine sense of camaraderie among the performers, presenting tunes that tugged at your heart, making you feel as if you were sitting around a campfire under the wide Wyoming sky.
The dinner, served buffet-style, was just as satisfying as the show. Unlimited BBQ brisket and…. well, that was enough for me all by itself… okay… with the fixin’s: beans, potatoes, hot brownies, ice cream — everything you’d expect from a classic cowboy feast.
The food was delicious, hearty, and a perfect complement to the entertainment. As we enjoyed our meal, we felt fully immersed in the experience, surrounded by fellow visitors and locals alike. It was clear that this was more than just a show for the people of Cody—it was a celebration of their way of life.
While we missed the pulse-pounding excitement of the rodeo, the Cody Cattle Company’s Cowboy Show captured the essence of the West in a way that felt intimate and authentic, making it a perfect wrap-up for our visit.
Departing Cody
As we wrapped up our time in Cody and began heading out toward our next adventure, we happened upon one last surprise—another tiny bear sculpture tucked beneath a park bench, almost as if it were waiting for us. It was a subtle discovery, one that could easily have been missed if we hadn’t been paying attention. But there it was, just as quiet and charming as the first one we found.
We paused for a moment, taking in the tiny figure and the simple joy it brought. Discovering it was a fitting end to our exploration of Cody—this hidden little treasure, much like the town itself, offering surprises at every turn for those willing to look.
With one last look, we realized we hadn’t quite uncovered all the sculptures hidden around town. A wistful thought crossed our minds: maybe there would be another visit to Cody in the future, to seek out the rest of these quiet treasures, to catch the rodeo, to actually sit down and watch the entire gunslinging show, to spend a full day or two or three exploring the museums, and maybe even going on a trail ride or whitewater rafting while we are at it.
For more information www.codychamber.org thecodycattlecompany.com www.cenerofthewest.com |
About the Author
PAUL PENCE not only writes many of the articles in the pages of this magazine, he is also the publisher and editor of all of the magazines in the Amygis Publishing’s family of travel magazines.
He loves exploring, traveling the back roads, experiencing the world, and finding what is unique and memorable about the places he visits.
And he loves writing – poetry, short stories, essays, non-fiction, news, and. of course, travel writing.
For over 20 years, he has shared his explorations with readers in a wide variety of outlets, from groundbreaking forays into the first stirrings of the dot-com boom to travel guides, local newspapers, and television, including Runner’s World, Travel Lady, Providence Journal, and Northstar Travel Media. He currently publishes and writes for Amygis Publishing’s magazines Jaunting, Northeast Traveler, and Rhode Island Roads.