The Wow of Wyoming – Sweetwater County

My goal was not to fall in…especially so close to the dock where there was a group of curious onlookers attentively watching my stand-up paddleboarding attempts on the lake at Red Canyon Lodge. It was a make-or-break moment as I rose up from my knees, first to an awkward squatting position and then slowly to full extension. I was shaking as I stood on the board, legs quivering like jelly and hands clenched in white knuckle fashion around the paddle.

Then I began to move, trying to remember to retain a slight bend in my knees, keep eyes focused ahead and alternate paddle strokes from side to side. It was slow going initially, as I didn’t trust my balance and I felt like a frozen statue. But gradually, I started to loosen up. Though I never quite reached that Zen moment of becoming one with my paddle, I did, however, feel a sense of pride in my accomplishment.

Stand-up paddleboarding is just one of dozens of activities visitors can experience while exploring Sweetwater County, Wyoming. Located in the southwestern corner of the state, Sweetwater County is ideally situated as a stopover for those heading to Yellowstone and the Tetons. However, once you realize how much there is to see and do here, you’ll likely want to extend your stay. There’s something for everyone, from the adrenaline junkie to the history buff and rock hound.

Start in Rock Springs, where you can take a trip back in time and dig into the state’s mining and railroad past. This desert oasis, named for a former spring that babbled through town, grew with the development of the area’s coal mining production and subsequent need for railroads.

You can easily get your history fix at the Rock Springs Historical Museum and the Sweetwater County Historical Museum in nearby Green River. There you’ll find exhibits on everything from coal mining and the Union Pacific Railroad to early settlers and notorious outlaws, like Robert Leroy Parker (most commonly known as Butch Cassidy), who journeyed through the area over the years.

Sweetwater’s Natural Wonders

One of the highlights of Sweetwater County is getting to see the wild horses that make their home in this corner of the state.

Did You know? Sweetwater is the largest county in Wyoming, covering 10,000 square miles. The Green River inspired the famous painting “Green River Cliffs, Wyoming” by Moran. Water in Sweetwater does not flow to any ocean. The county was a key part of the Oregon Trail.

These beautiful creatures run free and untamed, reminding visitors that the frontier spirit is still alive and well in our country. You can drive the 23-mile Pilot Butte Wild Horse Scenic Loop on your own, but beware the road is rough.

Not only will you be able to see the horses and possibly other animal such as pronghorn, coyotes and mule deer in their natural environment, but you’ll get a real taste of the scenery. Impressive vistas surround you at every turn as you navigate through a stark and unforgiving landscape dominated by White Mountain.

There are several panoramic overlooks of the area’s prominent features, such as Pilot Butte, a navigational landmark and Boar’s Tusk, a 400-foot-tall volcanic spire that acts as a sentinel to the vast Killpecker Sand Dunes. The Wyoming, Wind River and Uinta Mountain ranges are also on display, along with the Overland Trail and Union Pacific Railroad corridors.

As for the horses, the herd is a mix of different breeds from thoroughbreds and quarter horses to Morgans and Curly horses. You might spy small groups of these animals, maybe a stallion and his mares, or perhaps a pair of bachelor stallions, making their way down to a watering hole.

“These beautiful creatures run free and untamed, reminding visitors that the frontier spirit is still alive and well in our country.”

Towards the latter part of our excursion, we came across a cluster adjacent to the road. A few of the horses were surrounding a small colt lying on the ground, protecting her like elephants do with their young. Soon they parted and moved on to graze, and we got a full look at the little one before it rose in ungainly fashion and scampered off to join the others.

The Wonder Continues

At Killpecker Sand Dunes, we marveled at one of nature’s largest sand boxes. Created via a combination of volcanic action and subsequent wind erosion, the dunes can reach heights of over 100 feet and run for over 100 miles from west to east. They are traveling sand dunes, constantly on the move, which gives the vegetation in this environment a real challenge.

If you get a chance, stop at the White Mountain Petroglyphs. It’s an opportunity to see ancient artwork carved by the ancestors of present Plains and Great Basin Native Americans. The drawings are of elk, buffalo, horses, teepees and human figures. Many date to early historic times, about 200 years ago; others appear to be older and are estimated to be as much as 1,000 years old. There’s a particular section of the rock with marks that appear to be hand holds, possibly created by Native American women during the childbirth process.

Another major highlight of Sweetwater County is Flaming Gorge. To get there, take the Flaming Gorge Scenic Byway, one of the most scenic routes in the country. The drive encircles the 91-mile-long gorge and crosses verdant forests and vast canyons carved by the Green River. The majority of this area is in Wyoming, with only a small portion lying in neighboring Utah. Designated a National Recreation Area, Flaming Gorge is rich in wildlife and Western lore, and serves as a grand outdoor play arena.

If water is your milieu, you’ll be in heaven, whether it’s on an exciting raft trip or a leisurely boat excursion. Traveling from one end of the lake to the other, you’ll pass through sections with stunning rock pinnacles and long stretching beaches. As you make your way towards the south end, there are winding canyons with vibrantly-hued cliffs and lush forests. Big horn sheep graze the hillsides and scale the steep walls of the canyon, giving visitors pause as they stand in awe of these nimble creatures.

As for anglers, this area offers one of the most diverse fisheries in the world, with hundreds of waters within an hour’s drive of the gorge. It’s a trophy trout destination, known for setting state records for Lake, Rainbow and Brown trout.

Make sure to walk along Red Canyon Rim, where you’ll get great views of this massive formation, a 1,700 feet deep gorge carved by the Green River eons ago. The route follows the south side of the rim, providing many spectacular overlooks.

 It’s easy to become mesmerized by the contrast between the red walls of the canyon and the blue/green color of the lake.

There are plenty of places to camp in and around the Flaming Gorge, as well as a number of lodges for those wishing additional comfort. Red Canyon Lodge, where I had my stand-up paddleboard experience, is a top-rated establishment with a dose of rustic charm, offering private cabins, fine dining and plenty of activities to please all tastes and ages. The log cabins are custom-built and handcrafted, situated on the lodge’s peaceful lakeside setting.

Some folks simply sit on the porch content to gaze at the scenery during their stay, while others are active from dawn to dusk taking advantage of the fishing and boating opportunities on the private lake, or heading down to the stables for a trail ride.

For more information www.explorewy.com