Our visit to Culloden Battlefield was an exploration of history and memory, particularly significant for my wife, a proud descendant of the Campbell clan.
The journey began with us seeking the modest stone marker for the Campbells, an experience that highlighted the complex legacy of the clan and the Jacobite Rebellion.
As we walked the battlefield, now mostly a pasture with sheep and goats, wildflowers and butterflies, our first stop was the Clan Fraser marker. This prominent stone, set amidst the greenery, stood as a testament to the brave Highlanders who fought with unwavering determination against overwhelming odds.
The Fraser clan, known for their fierce loyalty to the Jacobite cause, had suffered heavy losses in the battle. The marker’s solemn presence served as a stark reminder of the valor and sacrifice that characterized the Highland charge.
Continuing along the path, we encountered several other markers, each with its own story. The Camerons had charged with fierce Highland fervor, only to be met with the devastating firepower of the British lines. Their marker, like that of the Frasers, is a lichen-covered, untended stone with the simple words “Clan Cameron”.
Finally, we found the Campbell marker. Unlike the others, it was well away from the others. Unlike the Cameron stone which had the letters highlighted with black paint, the letters on the Campbell stone had been left to the elements.
This marker underscored the complex history of the Campbells, who had sided with the British government forces during the battle, a decision that cast a long shadow over their legacy in Scotland.
As an American, my wife’s knowledge of Scottish history was understandably limited. Growing up in the United States, our education often focuses on local and national history, with less emphasis on the intricate pasts of other nations. Her fascination with her Scottish heritage was fueled by family stories and a romanticized view of the Highlands, but the full weight of history and its lasting impact on contemporary Scotland was something she was only beginning to grasp.
One encounter earlier in our trip had already hinted at this deep-seated historical consciousness.
In Edinburgh, she had excitedly asked a shopkeeper for help finding a Campbell tartan scarf. The shopkeeper’s reaction was unexpectedly cold. “We don’t carry that clan,” he said curtly, before turning away.
The response was a jarring moment, underscoring the lingering sentiments and historical grudges that still resonate in modern Scotland. My wife had felt embarrassed and bewildered, and it sparked a deeper curiosity in her about the history behind such strong feelings.
She had known that the Campbells had stollen livestock and massacred the McDonalds, but that had been hundreds of years ago, in an era when that was the normal mode of interaction between the clans.
It was learning about the Battle of Culloden provided the context she needed.
The Campbells, by siding with the British government forces at Culloden, were forever marked by their role in what many Scots see as a betrayal. This allegiance wasn’t just a footnote in history; it was a defining moment that influenced how the Campbell name was viewed in Scotland.
My wife’s discovery of this history was both enlightening and sobering. It helped her understand why the Campbell tartan might not be as readily embraced and why the clan’s marker at Culloden was modest and somewhat hidden.
The battlefield itself, with its somber beauty and historical markers, drove home the realization that history in Scotland isn’t just remembered—it’s lived.
To truly grasp the significance of Culloden Battlefield, it’s essential to delve into the turbulent history that led to the fateful clash on April 16, 1746. The Battle of Culloden was the culmination of the Jacobite rising of 1745, a desperate bid to restore the House of Stuart to the British throne.
The Jacobite cause was championed by Charles Edward Stuart, better known as “Bonnie Prince Charlie.” Born in 1720, Charles was the grandson of the deposed King James II of England and VII of Scotland.
The Glorious Revolution of 1688 had forced James II into exile, replacing him with William of Orange and his wife Mary, James’s Protestant daughter. The subsequent Acts of Union in 1707 further consolidated English and Scottish crowns under a single British government, marginalizing the Stuart claim and stoking Jacobite sentiment.
Bonnie Prince Charlie, charismatic and ambitious, arrived in Scotland in 1745, rallying support from the Highland clans.
His promise was simple yet powerful: the restoration of a Stuart king, the repeal of the Union, and the return of Scotland’s autonomy.
The initial Jacobite campaign was remarkably successful, culminating in a dramatic victory at the Battle of Prestonpans and the capture of Edinburgh. Spirits were high, and the dream of a Stuart restoration seemed within reach.
However, the tide began to turn as the Jacobites marched into England, aiming to gather further support and momentum. Their advance stalled at Derby, just 125 miles from London, due to indecision and lack of sufficient reinforcements. Facing increasing resistance, the Jacobites retreated to Scotland, pursued by government forces led by William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, the second son of King George II.
The Jacobite army, weary and demoralized, regrouped at Inverness. The final showdown took place on the flat, boggy expanse of Culloden Moor.
The battlefield’s terrain was ill-suited to the Highland charge, the traditional tactic of the Jacobite forces. On that cold, rainy April day, the Jacobites, numbering around 5,000, faced a well-disciplined and larger government army of about 9,000.
The battle commenced with an artillery exchange that heavily favored the government forces.
Cumberland’s cannons were devastatingly effective, and as the Jacobites began their charge, they were met with disciplined volleys of musket fire from the British lines. The Highlanders’ brave advance was brutally repulsed. Within less than an hour, the Jacobite army was decimated, with over 1,500 killed or wounded, while government casualties numbered around 300.
The aftermath of Culloden was catastrophic for the Highland way of life.
Bonnie Prince Charlie fled, eventually escaping to France, and the government enacted harsh reprisals. The Duke of Cumberland earned the grim nickname “Butcher Cumberland” for his ruthless suppression of any remaining Jacobite resistance. The government imposed measures to dismantle the clan system, including banning traditional Highland dress and disarming the clans. Gaelic culture and language were systematically suppressed, marking a significant blow to Highland identity.
Visiting Culloden today, one can see how the battlefield has been preserved to reflect its historical importance. The National Trust for Scotland has maintained the site with great care, ensuring that the land remains a poignant reminder of the past. Informative plaques and markers guide visitors through the events of the battle, providing a detailed account of the strategies and movements of both armies.
One particularly poignant stop was at the Well of the Dead. This small, unassuming spot marks where Alexander McGillivray, a chief of the Clan Chattan, fell during the battle. The well, now surrounded by stones and flowers left by visitors, added a deeply personal element to the battlefield. It was a place where the tragedy of Culloden felt immediate and tangible, a connection to the individuals who fought and died here.
One of the most striking landmarks is the memorial cairn, a stone structure erected in 1881 to honor the fallen Jacobite soldiers.
The Leanach Cottage, with its thatched roof made from heather grown on the battlefield, still stands. It was likely used as a field hospital during the battle, and has been meticulously restored to reflect its historical significance. Surrounding the cottage are the battlefield walls and dykes, which were once part of the landscape that witnessed the tragic events of 1746.
Understanding the Battle of Culloden and its aftermath is crucial to appreciating the resilience and spirit of the Scottish people. The site stands not only as a memorial to the fallen but also as a testament to a pivotal moment in history that shaped the cultural and political landscape of Scotland. The echoes of Culloden resonate through time, reminding visitors of the enduring legacy of the past and the importance of remembering and honoring those who fought and died on this historic ground.
The scars of Culloden were not only physical but cultural, deeply ingrained in the Scottish identity. The experience of walking the ground where so many lives were lost and futures altered was a powerful way for my wife to connect with her ancestry on a much deeper level. She came to appreciate that the Scottish people, with their long memories and history, carry their past with them in a way that is both poignant and proud.
The battlefield now seems to whisper the stories of those who had fought here. The open moor, once a chaotic scene of conflict, was now a place of quiet reflection.
Informative plaques along the path provided detailed descriptions of the battle’s events, from the initial artillery exchange to the final moments of the Highland charge. These plaques, combined with the markers, created a powerful narrative that brought the history of Culloden to life.
As we made our way back towards the visitor center, the landscape of Culloden Battlefield continued to reveal its layers of history and memory. Each step on the uneven ground was a reminder of the past, of the lives lost and the dreams shattered on this very soil. The morning mist had lifted slightly, allowing the sunlight to cast a soft glow on the heather and wildflowers that now carpet the moor.
The visitor center, the modern structure stood in contrast to the ancient moorland, yet it was integrated into the landscape.
The center itself is a hub of historical insight and educational resources.
Inside, we explored interactive exhibits that delved into the broader context of the Jacobite risings and the political climate of 18th-century Britain. Artifacts from the battle, including weapons, clothing, and personal items, were displayed with detailed explanations, providing a tangible link to the past.
One of the most impactful experiences within the visitor center was the 360-degree immersive battle presentation. This multimedia exhibit placed us in the midst of the conflict, with sights and sounds that recreated the chaos and intensity of the battle. It was a visceral reminder of the brutality of war and the human cost of the Jacobite dream.
The rooftop garden and observation platform offered a sweeping view of the battlefield, allowing us to visualize the movements of the armies and the layout of the terrain. From this vantage point, the strategic challenges faced by the Jacobite forces became clear. The flat, boggy ground was ill-suited for the Highland charge, and the disciplined British lines had a clear advantage in both manpower and cannon.
It was a moment of clarity that underscored the tactical elements of the battle and the harsh reality of the Jacobite defeat.
As we walked back to the car, the weight of history felt lighter but more profound. The visit had transformed our understanding of the Battle of Culloden from a distant historical event to a deeply personal and emotional experience.
The markers, the moor, and the stories we encountered had brought the past to life in a way that books and lectures never could. The battlefield was a living museum, a place where history and memory intertwined to create a powerful narrative of resilience, loss, and remembrance.
Culloden Battlefield stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Scottish people and the complex legacy of their history. It is a place that invites reflection and understanding, urging visitors to consider the impact of the past on the present.
For my wife and me, it was a journey into the heart of Scotland’s heritage, a poignant reminder of the importance of preserving and honoring our shared history.
When planning a visit to Culloden, make sure to plan two or three hours, and begin and end at the visitor center. There, audio guides are available for hire, providing in-depth narratives and personal stories that bring the history of the battle to life.
Expert-led tours are offered regularly, providing detailed insights and historical context that you might miss on a self-guided walk.
And be sure to watch the immersive 360-degree battle presentation, creating a visceral experience of the battle’s chaos and intensity.
The center includes a café serving local cuisine, a well-stocked gift shop with historical books and memorabilia, and clean restrooms.
The battlefield itself is well-marked with trails and informative plaques, guiding visitors through key locations and explaining their significance.
Markers and Monuments: Take time to visit the clan markers and the main memorial cairn, each offering poignant reminders of the lives lost.
Visiting Culloden Battlefield is more than a historical tour; it is a deeply moving journey into the heart of Scotland’s past. The preserved moor, the poignant markers, and the comprehensive visitor center create a powerful narrative of courage, loss, and cultural identity. Combined with the rich attractions nearby, a trip to this region offers a profound connection to history and the enduring spirit of the Scottish Highlands.
Whether you are exploring your ancestry, like my wife, or simply seeking to understand a pivotal moment in history, Culloden Battlefield and its surroundings provide an unforgettable experience. I encourage every reader to walk these historic grounds, reflect on the stories they tell, and immerse themselves in the vibrant culture of the Scottish Highlands.
For more information
• www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/culloden/
• .visitscotland.com
About the Author
PAUL PENCE not only writes many of the articles in the pages of this magazine, he is also the publisher and editor of all of the magazines in the Amygis Publishing’s family of travel magazines.
He loves exploring, traveling the back roads, experiencing the world, and finding what is unique and memorable about the places he visits.
And he loves writing – poetry, short stories, essays, non-fiction, news, and. of course, travel writing.
For over 20 years, he has shared his explorations with readers in a wide variety of outlets, from groundbreaking forays into the first stirrings of the dot-com boom to travel guides, local newspapers, and television, including Runner’s World, Travel Lady, Providence Journal, and Northstar Travel Media. He currently publishes and writes for Amygis Publishing’s magazines Jaunting, Northeast Traveler, and Rhode Island Roads.