Wildlife and Views in DENALI

There it was, a brown bear, just a hundred feet away from the bus, snuffling around for blueberries on the crest of a rounded hill. The air in the bus shifted instantly — everyone fell silent, cameras were raised in unison, and the only sounds were the occasional click of shutters and hushed gasps. I could feel the energy from every person around me, all of us mesmerized by this massive creature.

He didn’t care about us. Not even a glance in our direction. His entire focus was on the berries, pawing at the earth and nosing through the brush like we didn’t even exist. Quiet murmurs of “Wow,” and “Look at that,” as my fellow passengers leaned toward the bus windows, trying to get the best angle for their photos. There were oohs and ahhs as his bulk shifted from one paw to the other, completely at ease in his environment.

For nearly ten minutes, we watched him, a moving mound of fur, muscles rippling as he foraged for food. It was like watching a documentary unfold right in front of us. The tension and awe in the bus were palpable, as if none of us could believe we were this close to a wild bear in the heart of Denali.
Then, just as casually as he had appeared, the bear crested the hill, and with a final shuffle, disappeared from sight, leaving us all in stunned silence.

It was only after he was gone that the chatter in the bus resumed, but even then, it was quieter, as if we were all still processing what we’d just seen. It was one of those moments where nature completely takes over, and for a few minutes, you’re just a witness to something wild, something real that could never truly be captured by photographs or written words.

The thrill of spotting a brown bear just a hundred feet away from the bus was the highlight of our trip into Denali National Park.

That leg of our bucket-list trip began the day before, with a scenic drive up from Anchorage to our cozy cabin near the park in Cantwell. Alaska Route 3, the George Parks Highway, wound through verdant forests and over rolling hills, offering occasional glimpses of snow-capped peaks – some distant and some towering right over us, and as we climbed higher and higher into the mountains, we saw the trees go from the towering broad noble growths along the coast to the slender, almost pole-like white spruce more common to the area.

Then, after the drive and settled into our cabin, the quiet of the mountains enveloped us and the crisp evening air, fragrant with pine and the faint, sweet smell of wildflowers, was a perfect prelude to our adventure.

Rising early, we drove to the visitor center, the excitement building as we approached the bustling parking lot filled with cars and tour groups.

After picking up our tickets (reservations booked well in advance) and browsing the gift shop for the obligatory souvenirs, we attended a fascinating lecture about the park’s history and wildlife. There we learned about the history of the park, the various fauna, and the role of conservationists in preserving the park for future generations.

On the outside, our tour bus looked like a green school bus, but inside it was more comfortable, outfitted with overhead storage and video monitors. Despite arriving early, the bus was mostly full by the time we boarded.

As we pulled away from the visitor center, the driver circled around a research building, where the scent of pine and the distant murmur of other tour groups added to the atmosphere, before heading into the wilderness.

The driver explained that we were the spotters for the trip. All 45 passengers were to keep their eyes peeled for any interesting wildlife and shout out “Moose at Three O’Clock”, or whatever was appropriate at the time.

She explained that we had arrived at the end of the summer, when the moose are most active in this part of the park, so we should be alert in particular for them.

So eagle-eyed and anxious, we drove into the park, determined that not a single breathing creature will escape our notice.

The first picture on our trip was a beautiful landscape, as was the second and third, and many more, but it wasn’t long before the scenery settled in and the driver began to share the story of the first ascent of Denali from the books The 47-Mile Kid and Sourdough Donuts and Other Tales of the Alaska Wild. The tale of perseverance and adventure was vividly told, evoking images of climbers battling harsh conditions and rugged terrain.

As the bus navigated the twists and turns of the rugged terrain, the driver received an alert from another bus, likely communicated through flashing headlights.

There, in the distance, a moose, moving through the trees. This one, female, didn’t have the distinctive antlers, but even as far away as she was we could tell that she was huge.

The driver had a camera hooked to the video monitors and she pointed it out her window to give us a closer look than we could get with our noses pressed against the windows.

This was especially exciting for my wife, who had encountered a moose as a child and had dreamed of seeing one again. She often told the story of her grandfather taking for her for a hike in the woods and taking shelter in a deer blind when a moose came by. “I thought it was a dinosaur!”

Our Alaska trip ended up having several encounters with a moose, but this was the first she had spotted in the wild, so she was overjoyed.

A little later, our excitement grew as we spotted two caribou, their dark brown coats and impressive antlers catching the sunlight. Caribou, also known as reindeer in Europe, are large herbivores distinguished by their impressive antlers and migratory behavior. Their diet includes lichens, grasses, and shrubs, and they are often seen roaming in herds. Seeing one up close was a thrill, as its graceful movements and majestic presence perfectly embodied the wild spirit of Denali.

The thrill of spotting wildlife was momentarily dampened when we spent several minutes photographing what we thought were Dall sheep, only to discover they were large white rocks on the hillside.

Dall sheep, named after naturalist William Dall, are known for their impressive white coats and curved horns. They are agile climbers, adept at navigating steep, rocky terrain where they graze on grasses, lichens, and other vegetation. The disappointment was fleeting, as our spirits remained high and our search continued.

Finally, we encountered the bear described earlier, which made up for the earlier disappointment. Its large, powerful frame moved purposefully through the underbrush, a reminder of the untamed beauty of the park.

Then we spotted Denali.

Not the whole mountain, the highest of the three peaks, sharp and pointy, jutting above the clouds.

Denali’s weather is notoriously unpredictable, with frequent cloud cover and rapid changes in conditions due to its high elevation and location in the Alaska Range. This challenging weather contributes to the “30% Club,” where only about 30% of visitors to the park actually get to see the peak of North America’s highest mountain.

After this excitement, we finally reached a much-needed bathroom break at the Teklanika River. There was an earlier potential restroom break at Savage River where private vehicles are stopped. No rest break there, just a checkpoint where the park ranger counted noses and stamped the National Park passport for the kids. By the time we got to the Teklanika River stop, we were all approaching a point of desperation.

The crisp air as we stepped out of the bus were refreshing. Everyone got out, stretched, and explored the area briefly before reboarding. We also took time to dig into the snack box that the bus tour concessionaire provided, enjoying treats like crackers, a cheese stick, and chips.

As we resumed our trip, we spotted another bear on the hillside in the distance, a tan shape against the greenery. Even though he was far away, the rule was anything less than 300 yards is too close. A reasonable rule since it might be a trivial thing for a single passenger to jump back onto the bus, with 45 passengers, the ones at the end of the line could easily become a tasty dinner for the bear.

Alaska’s animals adapt to the long summer days, sleeping when they please, despite some being nocturnal by nature. This bear just slept.

After a while, we left it for its nap and continued onward.

The farther we went, the more interesting the landscape became. Trees and shrubs gave way to rocks sculpted by the weather.

Valleys carved by glaciers had rivers flowing across smoothed beds of gravel, so level that they find multiple, ever-changing paths across the riverbed, forming what are called “braided rivers”.

More caribou, another bear in the distance, and eventually we reached our turnaround point.

The road used to go 92 miles, twice as deep into the National Forest, but the road crosses a rock and sand-covered glacier that acts like a slow-moving landslide, wrecking the road. The rocks and sand, collected from the walls and floors of the valleys scraped by the glacier over the eons now form a layer that protects the ice from seasonal temperature fluctuations, but also fools us humans into assuming that the road is built on stable ground. So now, the busses turn around at Pretty Rocks, giving us a chance to see the same scenery from a different direction.

On our way back, the sleeping bear had awakened and was moving through the brush, almost impossible to spot if you didn’t know where to look.

We also spotted another caribou, much closer this time, causing a traffic jam as some onlookers, eager for a better view, left their vehicles despite the risk.

Then, before reaching the visitor center and ending our trip, we spotted a porcupine right on the edge of the road. The porcupine’s quills bristled in the sunlight as it scurried along.

Back at the visitor center, the guide concluded her story about the first climbers of Denali just as we arrived. After another visit to the gift shop, we returned to our cabin, satisfied with the day’s adventure.

On the drive back to Anchorage, two moose decided to saunter across the road, their massive forms moving leisurely through the foliage, providing a fitting end to an unforgettable journey through the wilds of Denali.

For more information
• www.nps.gov/dena