Seattle’s Pike Place Market is more than just a shopping destination; it’s a historic landmark teeming with vibrant life and diverse experiences. Recently, my wife and I had the opportunity to explore this iconic market, and while our visit didn’t include any high-octane adventures — it’s not like hiking on an Alaskan glacier or horseback riding in the Texas Hill Country — exploring the market was still an adventure of its own.
We set out in search of the famous flying fish. Or, more specifically, I set out in search of the flying fish, my wife hadn’t heard of them and I wanted it to be a surprise for her.
If you’ve ever heard of Pike Place Market, then you’ve almost certainly heard about the flying fish. I guess you could call it “flinging fish”, but that’s not as exciting.
The Pike Place Market tradition of flinging fish began as a practical solution for the fishmongers, who started tossing fish to each other to expedite filling orders. It quickly evolved into a lively show that attracts crowds of tourists and locals alike.
Within the Pike Place Fish Market, you’ll hear energetic shouts and see fish being tossed with impressive skill. The fishmongers, dressed in orange aprons and rubber boots, catch and throw large fish, typically salmon or halibut, which can weigh over 20 pounds. Visitors can often join in, creating fun photo ops!
But while I could find Pike Place Market without problem — it’s perched on the edge of Seattle’s downtown overlooking the Elliot Bay waterfront — I didn’t know how to find the fish mar ket. And since I couldn’t ask for directions to the fish market without ruining the surprise, the only thing to do is to wander and explore.
So we wandered and explored, discovering Pike Place Market along the way.
We parked a few blocks away of 5th Avenue, largely because we didn’t know that Pike Place Market had its own parking garage. But even if we had known, we are willing to walk a few blocks to save a couple of dollars. That was okay, because we also had the chance to pop into a couple of stores between parking and the market (as though 500 shops in the Market wasn’t enough).
Perhaps the best example of Pike Place being a farmers’ market is the flower stalls. Summertime is dahlia season and dahlias flourish in Seattle’s climate, making them dominant in the flower stalls. Dahlias come in a
huge variety of colors and shapes, freely crossbreeding to create even more variety, creating a visual feast that could rival any botanical garden.
But flowers seem to love Seattle summer, since the dahlias were just part o the amazing array of flowers on display.
Each vendor proudly displayed meticulously arranged blossoms, showcasing the incredible artistry and care that goes into their work.
Having a flight ahead of us, we had to pass on the blooms, so continued shopping, while I secretly kept an eye out for the fish market. Baked goods. Pasta. Handicrafts. Vegetables. Food trucks.
Rachel’s Ginger Beer, a vibrant fixture within Pike Place Market, offered us an array of artisanal ginger beers. The shop boasts a lineup of handcrafted sodas made from fresh ingredients and natural flavors. They whip up all their ginger beers right there, using fresh, local ingredients. The result? A crisp, refreshing drink that keeps people coming back.
The shop itself is bright and cheerful, matching the lively vibe of Pike Place. Customers can choose from a variety of ginger beer flavors, ranging from classic ginger to seasonal specialties like blood orange and pineapple. Beyond their flagship beverages, Rachel’s Ginger Beer also offers innovative cocktails crafted with their signature sodas, providing a unique twist on traditional drinks.
We found Market Spice, renowned for its aromatic blends of teas and spices, drawing us in with its rich history and enticing scents. Uli’s Famous Sausage tempted us with its delicious array of gourmet sausages, all made with local ingredients and perfect seasoning. A must for meat lovers!. Le Panier French Bakery wowed us with fresh- baked French pastries and breads, showing off traditional French baking right in the heart of the market.
We discovered the very fist Starbuck’s coffee shop, in the building across the street from the market. Well, technically the market is more than just the one building. It’s actually a complex of buildings, at times connecting in unexpected ways, at times separated. Contrary to my expectations of a simple marketplace, Pike Place revealed multiple levels and winding paths that seemed to lead to hidden treasures around every corner. This complexity added a sense of adventure, encouraging exploration and discovery at every turn.
Finding that fish market without asking for directions was going to be harder than I expected.
We found two brass piggy bank sculptures, “Billie” and “Rachel” — the size of real pigs. Rachel, named after a real pig who won a blue ribbon at the Island County Fair, weighs 550 pounds and has been under the big red letter Public Market sign since the 1980’s. Bil lie was installed in 2011. They help raise funds for the Market Foundation.
By the way, the Market Foundation is a nonprofit that’s been around since 1982, helping the community with a food bank, senior center, preschool, and medical clinic. They make sure Pike Place Market is a place for everyone, not just shoppers and tourists.
We also found the infamous Gum Wall in Post Alley — a quirky and unexpected find. This peculiar attraction, where visitors contribute their chewed gum to a continuously evolving, technicolor mosaic, adds a unique, if somewhat sticky and perhaps downright gross charm to the market’s eclectic atmosphere.
We wandered out onto the deck overlooking Elliott Bay. The stunning views of Elliott Bay offered a serene counterpoint to the bustling stalls. The sight of ferries gliding across the water, framed by the distant Olympic Mountains, provided a picturesque backdrop that captured the essence of Seattle’s maritime heritage.
We found crafts and t-shirts, and a vendor selling piggy banks. Plenty of restaurants.
Among the restaurants we found Pike Place Chowder, renowned
among seafood lovers, especially those seeking the perfect bowl of chowder. The star of the menu is undoubtedly the New England Clam Chowder, a classic and award-winning dish made with tender clams, bacon, and a perfectly balanced creamy broth.
However, the menu’s variety, including the luxurious Seafood Bisque, the smoky and flavorful Smoked Salmon Chowder, and the lighter Manhattan Style Chowder, ensures every visit offers something new and delicious. Beyond chowders, seafood rolls and other specialties provide a comprehensive seafood dining experience.
The atmosphere is cozy, filled with the aroma of simmering chowders, with limited seating, so expect to sit on a stool when you savor your meal.
The Pink Door offers a unique dining experience with its Italian-American cuisine, live entertainment, and stunning rooftop views of Elliott Bay. At Matt’s in the Market, diners enjoy a seasonal menu of fresh, local ingredients, all while taking in intimate views of Pike Place Market from the upstairs dining room. Beecher’s Handmade Cheese not only offers delicious mac and cheese and grilled cheese
sandwiches but also allows visitors to watch the cheesemaking process right on site. The Crumpet Shop delights patrons with its variety of sweet and savory crumpets, paired with a selection of fine teas in a charming and cozy atmosphere.
Throughout the outdoor stretches of the market, street performers have designated “busker” locations, so on weekends and other busy days you can expect to see musicians and jugglers and other entertainers at work as you shop.
But still, no fish market with flying fish.
Finally, I had to tell my wife I wanted to find the fish market, to which she asked why I’d want a fish. After a little stammering and still trying to hide the real reason, we worked out that there was, indeed, a fish market right near Rachel the Pig and the Public Market sign with the clock. (There was more than one Public Market sign.)
We had passed by Pike Place Fish Company multiple times there, and City Fish just at the beginning of the farmers’ market too, and I had been so distracted by all of the shops and amazing things to see.
It was also different than I had expected. I expected an industrial-scale operations with fishing boats pulling up to the wharfs, longshoremen and heavy equipment unloading the catch, giant crates of salmon and halibut and oysters and spotted prawns and geoduck clams and rockfish being shipped off to seafood lovers everywhere. I had imagined such an operation had to be on the market’s unseen lower levels that somehow reached out to the shoreline.
Instead, I found City Fish Company to be compact and efficiently organized to maximize space. The front of the stall features large, slanted ice beds showcasing an array of fresh seafood. They displayed glistening salmon fillets, whole fish, crabs, clams, and other seafood delights neatly arranged, making it easy for customers to browse and select their purchases. Above the ice beds, there are signs indicating the types of seafood available, often with handwritten notes about the catch of the day or special offers.
Behind the ice beds, the staff work diligently, filleting fish, preparing orders, and interacting with customers. The back wall of the stall is lined with shelves and hooks holding various tools, packaging materials, and additional seafood products. The overall setup is designed to be both functional and visually appealing, ensuring that the seafood remains the star of the show.
The Pike Place Fish Market was similar in scale and arrangement, but it was here that the fishmongers have turned transferring fish into a performance art.
Ordering a whole salmon at Pike Place Fish Market is not just a transaction; it’s an experience. As you place your order, the fishmongers spring into action. One of them will call out your order loudly, announcing the type of fish and any specific instructions, such as “whole salmon for filleting!”
The real fun starts when the fishmongers prepare to toss the salmon. With a practiced hand, one of the staff members grabs the fish and, with a loud shout of “Fish in the air!” or “One salmon, flying!”, hurls it across the stall to another fishmonger. The crowd around the stall often gasps and cheers, adding to the lively atmosphere.
With a satisfying slap of the fish landing perfectly in the hands of the receiving fishmonger, he catches it with skill and flair, sometimes adding a bit of showmanship with a dramatic catch or a playful spin, feeding off the applause and cheers of the onlookers.
The fish is then quickly and expertly prepared according to your specifications, whether that means filleting, cleaning, or packaging it for travel.
Throughout the process, the fishmongers engage with the crowd, cracking jokes, sharing stories, and sometimes even inviting customers to participate in the fish toss. You might hear them shout “Heads up!” to alert everyone before a fish is thrown or “On the line!” to indicate an order is ready for pickup. This interaction makes the experience memorable and fun for everyone involved.
Once the fish is prepared, it’s handed over to you, often with a friendly smile and a few cooking tips. The entire process, from order to completion, is a blend of efficiency and entertainment, showcasing the fishmongers’ expertise and their commitment to making each visit special.
The atmosphere at Pike Place Fish Market is electric, with the sounds of laughter, cheers, and the occasional splash of water as fish are tossed and caught. It’s a unique blend of commerce and performance, making it a must-see attraction in Seattle.
But we had spent the day gawking at arts and crafts and flowers and books and pig sculptures and the bay outside. It was past 5pm and Pike Place Fish Market was closed for the day.
Alas, no fish flinging… er… flying fish…
So I settled for a nice dinner of fish and chips at Jack’s Fish Spot and promised myself to make it back to see the flying fish in person on our next visit to the area.
So if you find yourself in Seattle, plan on spending a good part of a day exploring Pike Place Market’s shops, taking selfies with the brass piggy banks, being entertained by the buskers, and, if your timing is right, laughing at the fish mongers and the flying fish.
For more information
- pikeplacemarket.org
- pikeplacefish.com
- thepinkdoor.com
- marketspice.com
- lepanier.com
- www.cityfish.com
About the Author
PAUL PENCE not only writes many of the articles in the pages of this magazine, he is also the publisher and editor of all of the magazines in the Amygis Publishing’s family of travel magazines.
He loves exploring, traveling the back roads, experiencing the world, and finding what is unique and memorable about the places he visits.
And he loves writing – poetry, short stories, essays, non-fiction, news, and. of course, travel writing.
For over 20 years, he has shared his explorations with readers in a wide variety of outlets, from groundbreaking forays into the first stirrings of the dot-com boom to travel guides, local newspapers, and television, including Runner’s World, Travel Lady, Providence Journal, and Northstar Travel Media. He currently publishes and writes for Amygis Publishing’s magazines Jaunting, Northeast Traveler, and Rhode Island Roads.