The question of whether or not to cross the living root bridges looms large as you stand at the edge. Before you lies the famed double-decker root bridge, a magnificent structure spanning a river rushing below. It’s not dizzying heights or a river running wild with rapids and peril, but a fall would definitely threaten broken bones.
The upper and lower levels of the bridge in the town of Cherrapunji, deep in the Indian state of Meghalaya, intricately woven from the roots of the Indian rubber tree (Ficus elastica), create a marvel that is both inviting and daunting.
The choice of going across is pre-decided: turning back after a strenuous hike would feel like a betrayal of the effort it took to reach this point. Taking a deep breath, you step forward, placing your trust in the centuries-old roots that form these natural marvels.
As you step onto the bridge, you can feel the roots flex slightly under your weight. For anyone who was raised in a world where we rely on steel cables and reenforced concrete, the flex is an unnerving sensation at first, but the bridge holds firm.
The Khasi people have added flattened pieces of wood to the “floor” of the bridge, making the footing more even and less treacherous than it would be on the tangled roots alone. Each step brings a new sensory experience—the cool dampness of the wood, the slight give of the roots, and the sound of water rushing below.
The living root bridges, particularly the famed double-decker bridge in Nongriat, demonstrate the ingenuity of the Khasi people. These bridges are made from the roots of the Indian rubber tree, or Ficus elastica, which are guided and coaxed over decades to span rivers and streams. The roots are intertwined with care, creating a sturdy, living structure that grows stronger over time.
The Khasi people, who inhabit the hilly terrain of the Indian province of Meghalaya, were in need of a reliable way to cross the numerous rivers and streams that crisscross their homeland. During the monsoon season, these waterways would swell, making traditional bamboo and wood bridges unstable and prone to washing away. To solve this problem, the Khasi ancestors turned to the Ficus elastica tree, known for its strong and flexible roots.
By guiding the tree’s aerial roots across the rivers and securing them in the soil on the opposite banks, they created living bridges that could withstand the heavy rains and grow stronger over time. This ingenious method not only provide safe passage but also showcased the community’s deep understanding and respect for their natural environment.
According to local lore, the famous double-decker root bridge in Nongriat, called “Jingkieng Nongriat” was constructed by a particularly skilled and visionary elder of the village. The second layer above the first to ensure that the river could be crossed even during the most severe floods. The lower layer would often be submerged, but the upper layer would stay dry and accessible.
That means, of course, trusting your bones to two bridges – the upper across, and the lower back. But fear not, in many Khasi tales, the living root bridges are believed to be imbued with a spirit that protects those who cross them. It’s said that these bridges are alive, not just in a physical sense but also spiritually. They are treated with great reverence, and there are traditional practices and rituals performed to honor the spirit of the bridges.
The journey to the living root bridges is an adventure in itself. The trek to Nongriat, the village that hosts the double-decker bridge, starts in the town of Tyrna. The trail descends steeply, with over 3,000 steps carved into the hillside. The air is thick with humidity, and the scent of wet earth and foliage surrounds you. Along the way, you pass throgh vibrant green forests, clear streams, and the occasional waterfall.
The hike is demanding but rewarding. Each bend in the trail offers new vistas—dense jungle interspersed with glimpses of distant valleys. The sound of cicadas and bird calls fills the air, creating a natural soundtrack to your journey. Despite the exertion, the beauty of the landscape provides ample motivation to keep moving forward.
As you make your way to the iconic double-decker root bridge, you’ll encounter other remarkable root bridges like the the Ritymmen Root Bridge, a single-tier structure that gracefully spans the river near the village of Nongthymmai. This bridge, with its wide, sturdy roots, offers a glimpse into the intricate craftsmanship that characterizes all the root bridges.
Beyond Nongriat, other root bridges can be found scattered across the region, such as the Mawlynnong Root Bridge near the village of Mawlynnong, known as Asia’s cleanest village, and the Mawsaw Root Bridge located deeper in the forest. Each bridge, with its unique design and setting, contributes to the rich tapestry of Cherrapunji’s natural and cultural heritage.
There are modern bridges spanning much wider gorges in the region, but those are expensive, degrade over time, and require maintenance. But the root bridges are free, use local resources, and over time, become stronger and stronger.
In fact, some of the modern bridges are being used as scaffolding for future root bridges, the roots being carefully cultivated to replace the steel and concrete with they eventually wear out, leaving the living root bridge in its place for centuries to come.
Among the verdant hills and dense forests of Meghalya, magnificent waterfalls create magnificent sights.
One of the most awe-inspiring is Nohkalikai Falls. Plunging over 1,100 feet (340 meters) from the edge of a towering cliff, Nohkalikai is the tallest waterfall in India. The sheer drop is mesmerizing, as the water descends into a deep, emerald-green pool below. The name “Nohkalikai” translates to “Leap of Likai,” rooted in a local legend of suffering and sorrow. The falls are best viewed just after the monsoon season, when they are at their most powerful and the rains have let up enough to view them.
Standing at the viewpoint, the sight of Nohkalikai Falls is both humbling and exhilarating. The roar of the water as it crashes into the pool below, combined with the mist that rises up, creates a sensory experience that is unforgettable. The lush greenery surrounding the falls adds to the scene’s dramatic beauty, making it a perfect spot for photography and quiet contemplation.
In contrast to the towering grandeur of Nohkalikai, Wei Sawdong Falls offers a different but equally captivating experience. This waterfall is known for its unique three-tiered structure, where water cascades down approximately 50 feet (15 meters) into a series of bowl-like gorges. The tiers form natural pools at each level, creating a step-like appearance that is both serene and picturesque.
Reaching Wei Sawdong involves a bit of a trek, but the journey is well worth it. The trail winds through dense forest, and the sound of cascading water grows louder as you approach. Once you arrive, the sight of the waterfall’s turquoise pools against the backdrop of rugged cliffs is striking. The clear, cool water invites visitors to take a refreshing dip, making it a popular spot for both relaxation and adventure.
While the living root bridges and waterfalls of Cherrapunji often take the spotlight, the region’s subterranean wonders also merit attention. Mawsmai Cave, one of the most accessible and impressive caves in Meghalaya, offers a captivating journey into the underground world.
Located just a few kilometers from Cherrapunji, Mawsmai Cave is an easy addition to any itinerary. The cave’s entrance is framed by dense foliage and towering limestone formations, providing a dramatic gateway to the wonders within. As you approach, the cool air emanating from the cave offers a refreshing contrast to the humid atmosphere outside.
Stepping inside you are immediately struck by the intricate formations that adorn its walls and ceiling. The cave stretches for about 150 meters, with sections that are both wide and narrow, creating a dynamic and engaging exploration experience. The natural limestone formations have been sculpted over millennia by the slow but persistent drip of mineral-rich water.
Navigating Mawsmai Cave is a sensory experience. The air inside is cool and damp, with the sound of dripping water echoing through the caverns. As you move deeper into the cave, the path becomes more adventurous, with narrow passages requiring careful maneuvering. The play of light and shadow creates a mystical atmosphere. In some areas, natural light filters in through small openings, casting a soft glow on the formations.
Keep a watch out as you travel through the dense forests and hills for the myriad of species that make the region their home, including various treasures such as vibrant butterflies, exotic birds like the Indian paradise flycatcher, and the elusive orange-breasted trogon. You might actually spot mammals such as the clouded leopard, Asian elephant, and Hoolock gibbon that roam the forests, or perhaps reptiles like the king cobra and Indian python slither through the undergrowth.
For a unique addition to your Cherrapunji adventure, a visit to the crystal-clear waters of the Dawki River is a must. Located near the border between India and Bangladesh, this river is renowned for its stunning transparency, creating the illusion that boats are floating on air. Paddling boats on the Dawki River offers a tranquil experience, allowing you to soak in the pristine beauty of the surrounding valleys.
The journey along the Dawki is equally captivating, as you traverse the scenic landscape of Meghalaya. The excursion offers breathtaking views of deep valleys and lush, rugged terrain. This combination of serene river boating and the dramatic backdrop of Meghalaya’s natural splendor makes the Dawki River an essential part of any itinerary, enriching your exploration of this enchanting region.
The cultural heritage of the Khasi people is deeply intertwined with the natural beauty of Cherrapunji. While the Khasi people predominantly practice Christianity, introduced by Welsh missionaries in the 19th century, a notable minority still adhere to their traditional animistic religion, Niam Khasi, which emphasizes nature and ancestral worship, making the waterfalls, jungle, valleys, hills, and the roots that form the bridges more than just simple “things” that happen to be outside – they have a living essence.
One of the best ways to experience Khasi culture is by attending local festivals. The Nongkrem Dance Festival, held in November, is a vibrant celebration of thanksgiving and prosperity. The festival features traditional dances, music, and rituals, with men and women dressed in their finest attire. The Shad Suk Mynsiem, or “Dance of the Joyful Heart,” held in April, is another important cultural event, marking the end of the sowing season.
Music and dance are integral to Khasi culture, with traditional instruments like the duitara (a type of lute) accompanying lively dance performances. During these festivals, traditional Khasi attire like the women’s Jainsem, a two-piece dress and the men’s Jymphong, a sleeveless jacket, are often worn.
Sampling Khasi cuisine is a highlight of any visit to Cherrapunji. The food is hearty and flavorful, reflecting the region’s agricultural practices and cultural preferences.
Khasi dishes are typically centered around rice and meat. Jadoh, a spicy rice dish cooked with pork, is a staple at local eateries. Dohneiiong, a rich pork curry made with black sesame seeds, offers a unique blend of smoky and savory flavors. For the adventurous, Tungrymbai, a fermented soybean paste, is a must-try, known for its strong, distinctive taste.
The best time to visit Cherrapunji is from October to May, away from the monsoon season that makes the region the wettest in the world. This period offers pleasant weather and clear skies, ideal for outdoor activities like hiking and sightseeing.
Cherrapunji is best explored on foot or by hiring local guides. The terrain is rugged, and many attractions are accessible only by hiking trails. Comfortable, sturdy footwear is essential for navigating the often slippery and uneven paths.
A range of accommodation options is available in and around Cherrapunji, from budget guesthouses to mid-range hotels. For an immersive experience, consider staying in a homestay with a local family, which provides an opportunity to learn about Khasi culture firsthand.
Or seek out a more carefully curated experience at Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort, which offers a serene and eco-friendly retreat for travelers seeking a tranquil escape. With cozy cottages and spacious rooms, situated in close proximity to the region’s natural wonders, the resort also organizes guided tours and activities, including treks to the living root bridges, waterfall explorations, and cultural immersions, ensuring a memorable and immersive experience of Cherrapunji’s enchanting beauty.
Cherrapunji is a destination that captivates with its natural beauty, cultural richness, and warm hospitality. Whether you’re crossing the living root bridges, marveling at waterfalls, or delving into local traditions, each experience offers a deeper connection to this enchanting region. As you reflect on your journey, you’ll carry with you the spirit of Cherrapunji—a place where nature and culture coexist in harmonious splendor.
For more information:
• www.meghalayatourism.in
• cherrapunjee.com
About the Author
Max Reynolds is well known for writing about East Asian cultures, renowned for captivating articles that transport readers to the enchanting landscapes and vibrant cities of Asia. With his help, you can always expect to uncover the hidden gems and cultural nuances of this captivating region.
Drawing from an extensive background in anthropology and history, Max's articles provide a rich tapestry of insights into the diverse societies, traditions, and historical contexts that shape East Asia. Meticulous research and unwavering attention to detail ensure that readers can rely on the accuracy and authenticity of his work.